I just want a guess from someone who knows about Z's on how much horsepower my Z will have at the crank and at the wheels. I am half way through a na>tt swap.
So the car has Wiseco pistons forged and ceramic coated bored .40 over. eagle rods, the crank have been reground .10 with toga bearings. i also redid the heads with new valves(not that it will increase hp) and did a mild port. the car will have a upgraded ecu. it has an exhaust and will have a upgraded intake. the turbos are factory. the car is a 5 spd.

Just give me an idea on how much horsepower to expect and also torque. im not looking for exact numbers, thats why im not putting it on a dyno.

 

Welcome to ZDriver! That makes no sense.... so I'm gunna say.... 23507903498743634hp

 

you did all that work, and your gonna drop that motor in there without changing the turbo's? or injectors? or like crank pulley? do yourself a hug favor and do those few things while its out so you dont have to repull it to do it later (sept the injectors but i assume they'd be easier with no car mass and EGR pipes attatched to plenums)

 

It's never enough h.p.

 

Yes I did do all that work and I am leaving the turbos for now. They have 30,000 miles on them, they are USDM. If they need to be replaced in a year or 2, no big deal. I have everything I need to pull the motor.
The injector and crank pulley were not being upgraded as of right now. I could always do that later on.

 

Thank you for your response. Maybe if add some more stickers I can get some more power out of it.

 

400 crank.

 

2nd

Those forged pistons and eagle rods do you no good without some more mods and larger turbos. Reguardless of the internal work, it's a Stage III Twin Turbo, which should dyno about 330-350rwhp @ 14.5psi. However, it will be a nice free-reving engine.

 

yep I say 400 crank. U cna most likely probably rev to like 9K with no problems.

 

I didnt even think i'd get 400 so that sounds good to me. Untill I replace the turbos in like a year or two, will I be putting any more stress on them? I really want to do other stuff before I get bigger turbos.

 

before you get upgraded turbos, you should definately look into getting bigger injectors, intercoolers, and a stronger, lighter driveline(clutch, flywheel, driveshaft). i would also suggest buying a turbo timer and electronic boost controller before, or at the latest when you get the bigger turbos. you can also get bigger exhaust manifolds, downpipes, testpipes/high flow cats, ud pulley, and doolz-depending on how much hp you are pushing.

also, you will need to update that ecu whenever you ugrade

 

Tuning for me got:

361rwhp/411tq and in Houston heat.

- intercoolers
- ecu + emanage blue
- stock turbo's
- downpipes
- test pipes
- HKS Turbo Exhaust
- lightened alum flywheel
- JWT Heavy Duty Clutch

Other things I'm forgetting.

 

I would highly suggest a few extra things:

- triple core radiator
- check for flow to rear cylinders, the VG30DETT has oil passage problems to the rear cylinder if I"m not mistaken.
- downpipes
- testpipes

You'll easily hit 15psi at 350+ rwhp, I got a ton of torque from mine though 411+.

 

While the rotating assembly could do those kinds of rpms, there's no way his valvetrain could do that. To rev over about 7800rpms, stiffer valve springs, bronze valve guides, and solid lifters become necessary. But really, the engine won't flow enough air to make those rpms beneficial without some upgraded cams too. (Just for reference.)

 

oh yea, forgot about cooling

 

how can I forget that. I am such a fool... shame on me :s-redeemer:

 

alright, im gonna dyno my stock (i meen stock) 95 N/A auto tonight.

 

~180-190 rwhp I predict...

 

low 180s..

 

alright, on pump gas with a stock tune it put out 184 WHP in second w/30% humidity, air temp at 104*

with 110 racing gas, the "tad tune" and open headers we got 203 WHP with the same weather conditions as above, this is also without accesorie belts atached, cant wait until start modding this beast..

 

It's an NA.....

Your liberal use of the word beast is........

......wrong.

 

its a beast for being a N/A, just wait until i start the N/A of dooooooooommmmmmm, porting the heads, forged internals, ported plenum, all sorts of goodies, but im shooting for above 300WHP shouldnt be that hard to do, all it will take is time.

 

lol, silly n00b... I really hope that was a sarcastic post.

To my knowledge (which, of the Z32, is decently extensive), there has NEVER been an NA with over 300rwhp without nitrous. In fact, most of them never see over 230rwhp without nitrous. Not to mention, ported and polished heads and plenums have never been shown to yield that many gains on these cars (I think your best bet there would be Twin Turbo heads and plenums). Additionally, you have NO purpose for forged internals on an NA.

But saying it shouldn't be hard to do is the most amusing part.

 

not very many people try that hard with a N/A if i gained 20HP from just a mild re-tune, then god only know what the power potential could be for a N/A, its never really been atempted, so you cant say its impossible, the only problem i would have with reaching 300HP is boring the cylinders, but worse comes to worse i could sleave it.

 

The Z32 has been around for nearly 17 years now... if you think you're the first to "try hard" to reach 300rwhp, you're dreaming...

And do you think that boring it out is going to net power increases? The largest pistons I think you can fit are only 2mm larger than stock (89mm are the largest I've seen); the gains are negligible at best (you'd see more gains dynoing the car on a cooler day). Boring the cylinders is ONLY necessary when the stock bore is out of spec or damaged from a cracked piston. And I've never heard of anyone sleeving a VG30... some say it can't be done... either way, I don't see a point to that either. For the record, I don't see the purpose in boring out your engine to reach 300rwhp unless your cylinders are damaged.

I hate to surprise you, but you're not going to make 300rwhp without nitrous or a pair of turbochargers... the 350Z has an extra half liter even, and generally won't make 300rwhp without FI or nitrous.

And you didn't gain 20hp from "just a mild re-tune." Your extra 19rwhp came from open headers and no accessories attatched, your "tune" probably had little to do with it. And please post the dyno charts with A/F readings... I want to see how lean it got... there might not be any more room for improving your A/F.

I'm not trying to be a dick (though I am one by nature), I'm just trying to save you the frustration and disappointment when you do every mod you can possibly do, short of nitrous, and only make 240-250rwhp. If you don't believe me, post on tt.net and 3zc.com about your goals and see what they say - both sites get significantly more traffic. I don't want you to think I'm the sole negative voice about the NA.

I'll be proven wrong when I see a dyno chart showing 300rwhp on an NA Z32... but I just searched 3ZC and TT.NET for you and came up with these...

Here are a few threads discussing the potential of the VG30DE... notice there has never been a confirmed NA with even nearly 300rwhp...

http://www.3zc.com/showthread.php?t=37134&page=1&pp=30

http://www.3zc.com/showthread.php?t=65573&page=1&pp=30

http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg...msg_id=1017560

http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg...msg_id=1017654

here's the ESCORT RACING NA, which does claim 300hp NA...

http://z32racing.50megs.com/Z/_photo...24/page_01.htm

Dyno charts, including modified NA's...

http://www.ttzd.com/rides/dynocharts/dynocharts.html

Like I said, I'm not trying to be a dick... I'm just here to provide information. Don't be disappointed when you don't reach that unattainable goal.