Idle issues and lifter tick
#1
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 215
From: Port Townsend (Home) and Bellingham (School), WA
Idle issues and lifter tick
I was gonnah follow this little howto on how to clean the idle system and cure rough idle, but I have a couple questions.
First off, where is the car supposed to idle? I read somewhere like 650 - 750 for a manual but that seems REALLY freaken low (and its way lower than shelby's Z idles now, 900-1200ish.
Second, how do you adjust the idle? There is a screw on the TB (which is where I am inclined to look first), but it does nothing and I read somewhere that the idle was controlled by the ECU. I know I'm kinda dumb but I'm trying to learn.
Third,
I've read a couple things about lifter tick:
1st. thin synthetic oil will clean the gunk outtah the lifters
2nd. Marvel or seafoam added to your oil (in this case what oil would you use).
Thanks for the help.
First off, where is the car supposed to idle? I read somewhere like 650 - 750 for a manual but that seems REALLY freaken low (and its way lower than shelby's Z idles now, 900-1200ish.
Second, how do you adjust the idle? There is a screw on the TB (which is where I am inclined to look first), but it does nothing and I read somewhere that the idle was controlled by the ECU. I know I'm kinda dumb but I'm trying to learn.
Third,
I've read a couple things about lifter tick:
1st. thin synthetic oil will clean the gunk outtah the lifters
2nd. Marvel or seafoam added to your oil (in this case what oil would you use).
Thanks for the help.
#2
a manual n/a should be idling around 750 rpms. the idle screw is on the IACV in the rear drivers side behind the engine at the top. you only want to change your idle IF you know that nothing else is causing you to have a high idle.
in the case of shelby's z, you should check her IACV and ARU(linked to the IACV) to see if their resistances are in spec. if not, they can be taken off and cleaned. if those check out, theres plenty of other places to inspect and clean
lifter tick is caused by a stuck or worn out lifter. you can try adding Marvel Mystery Oil to thin out your current oil to try and unstick the lifters if that is the problem. (and afterwards)or you can try switching to a heavier oil, such as 15-50 to give the possibly worn out lifters a little extra pressure.
and heres a thread with a writeup on how to use seafoam.
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...hlight=seafoam
in the case of shelby's z, you should check her IACV and ARU(linked to the IACV) to see if their resistances are in spec. if not, they can be taken off and cleaned. if those check out, theres plenty of other places to inspect and clean
lifter tick is caused by a stuck or worn out lifter. you can try adding Marvel Mystery Oil to thin out your current oil to try and unstick the lifters if that is the problem. (and afterwards)or you can try switching to a heavier oil, such as 15-50 to give the possibly worn out lifters a little extra pressure.
and heres a thread with a writeup on how to use seafoam.
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...hlight=seafoam
#5
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 215
From: Port Townsend (Home) and Bellingham (School), WA
Thanks.
I meant to add a link to the writeup I was gonnah use but I forgot sorry. We don't so much have rough idle as we do high idle. This happens occasionally; usually when there isn't anything accessory wise causing the engine to idle high (no heat/AC, substantial electrical load, brake depressed, turning the wheel, etc.) the car will idle around 800 RPM then drop low enough that it wants to die, and then the car will correct, in a seemingly endless cycle. Is that common?
I'm gonnah try the marvel in the engine oil, but how would I go about that if the oil level is full? What ratio or how much should I use? How long should I run it before we change the oil? Whats a good brand/type of oil to use. Sorry to ask so many noob questions. Just tell me to search if this is stuff I should have found elsewhere, I just figured since I was asking a question I had already searched I might as well ask all my related questions because given the context the answers may differ.
Thanks
I meant to add a link to the writeup I was gonnah use but I forgot sorry. We don't so much have rough idle as we do high idle. This happens occasionally; usually when there isn't anything accessory wise causing the engine to idle high (no heat/AC, substantial electrical load, brake depressed, turning the wheel, etc.) the car will idle around 800 RPM then drop low enough that it wants to die, and then the car will correct, in a seemingly endless cycle. Is that common?
I'm gonnah try the marvel in the engine oil, but how would I go about that if the oil level is full? What ratio or how much should I use? How long should I run it before we change the oil? Whats a good brand/type of oil to use. Sorry to ask so many noob questions. Just tell me to search if this is stuff I should have found elsewhere, I just figured since I was asking a question I had already searched I might as well ask all my related questions because given the context the answers may differ.
Thanks
Last edited by ezramoore; 04-18-2007 at 01:24 PM.
#6
mmmm... not really, its shouldnt drop that significantly, the high idl will come on when using A/C and junk but will stop if you hit the econ button or w/e its labeled as. and the marvel stuff, will good idea i wouldnt run it to long becuase you had that varying compression ratios so it could promote the loss, i know when i went synthetic and a lighter oil is whne my low compression started to become noticable. and give the TPS thing a try, i sound very repetitive but it really did help ALOT on my car. search it on TT.net damn YOU!!!!! lol.
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