pics and questions
01-29-2008, 06:20 PM
#1
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pics and questions
well i've been on here for a while and am just now figuring ou thow to get pics onto the forum, so i thought i would. kindof like a n introduction to my car. not like any of you don't know what it looks like lol.
yea, she's a bit dirty. there's been some salt and the hose is turned off at the house
no surprises here
i could do without the racing seats, and the tinted windows, and the amp, and i hate the color, but it seemed like a good deal at the time!
i know everyone knows what it looks like, it just seems like everyone else has pictures somewhere!
so now for my little problems, if anyone would like to give some advise:
i'm idling high, and the car jumps very badly when the peddle is just barely in, like the car won't just cruize, it has to accelerate or decelerate. the idle does go up when the air compressor goes on, and down when it's off. when it starts, it revs sometimes to 2500- almost 3000. talk about lifter tick right there. no oil flowing yet but it's turning 3000! i've been thinking TPS, and that is this weekends project, finding that problem.
occassionally, i get a code 13 i think, but its the coolant temp sensor circuit. i did replace the sensor, but it's back. but my wonder on that is, if it's not working, why does the idle go up when i pull it off? dunno what to do there.
any advise is great. the car does run great. people that don't know what to look for think the car is perfect. but i am a perfectionist for the mechanical issues.
yea, she's a bit dirty. there's been some salt and the hose is turned off at the house
no surprises here
i could do without the racing seats, and the tinted windows, and the amp, and i hate the color, but it seemed like a good deal at the time!
i know everyone knows what it looks like, it just seems like everyone else has pictures somewhere!
so now for my little problems, if anyone would like to give some advise:
i'm idling high, and the car jumps very badly when the peddle is just barely in, like the car won't just cruize, it has to accelerate or decelerate. the idle does go up when the air compressor goes on, and down when it's off. when it starts, it revs sometimes to 2500- almost 3000. talk about lifter tick right there. no oil flowing yet but it's turning 3000! i've been thinking TPS, and that is this weekends project, finding that problem.
occassionally, i get a code 13 i think, but its the coolant temp sensor circuit. i did replace the sensor, but it's back. but my wonder on that is, if it's not working, why does the idle go up when i pull it off? dunno what to do there.
any advise is great. the car does run great. people that don't know what to look for think the car is perfect. but i am a perfectionist for the mechanical issues.
01-30-2008, 02:16 PM
#6
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haha that brown hunk of poo is my dads parts TR6 under a brown tarp. its mustard yellow lol. it also has my spare midget engine in front of it. does the z look like it needs that much loving? it's dirty and has the black worn off of the trim on top, but it's not that bad on the outside. it was re-painted about a year ago. it had a bad tape job but it's a decent finish. i think the PO took it somewhere cheap. i would have done it myself
01-30-2008, 02:35 PM
#7
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It's got potential, for sure. It doesn't look too bad. Anyway yeah I agree. I would have painted it myself also. What color were you thinking of painting it? Yeah I never much cared for yellow. My Firebird, was originally a canary yellow, yuck! lol 
Now she is a rattle canned gloss black. Better than she was. he he 
Now she is a rattle canned gloss black. Better than she was. he he
01-30-2008, 03:25 PM
#8
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being 18 and havign very limited finances, i wouldn't change the color of any car, because of the extra paint and time, and i am too much of a perfectionist to handle seeing a different color every time i open the hood. but, if i could, it would be white. or black. and good choice on the yellow to black
02-06-2008, 09:56 PM
#14
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i loved my t-tops, not gonna lie, id light the lighter weight in a hardtop, but i just LOVED my t's in the Z32. so stop being so jealous. and yeah what seats r those? they look really natural in there. from that pic at least. might be the lighting. oh, and i think your shift **** is on backwards lol!!! same with your wheels lol lol!!!!! your car is backwards everywhere!
02-26-2008, 03:38 PM
#15
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haha true, both those things are backwards! the dim wit at the allignment shop... i told him to fix it when he put the tires on. he moved the wheels around alright, but i think he made it worse...
shift ****... i havn't looked at it too well yet. i think the bolt that holds it tight is missing.
i love the T-tops! i like them a lot.
as for the problems, i'm buying a TPS from hoov this weekend, so hopefully that will clear the idle up. if not, then O2 sensors. if not that, then one of those 2 valves on the back of the plenum. i forget which one. but i will post the results
i don't even know what the seats are. but they used to be BRIGHT yellow and i used a spray on die. they do look pretty good. probably a pretty cheap brand. i've seen one's very similar in JC whitney
shift ****... i havn't looked at it too well yet. i think the bolt that holds it tight is missing.
i love the T-tops! i like them a lot.
as for the problems, i'm buying a TPS from hoov this weekend, so hopefully that will clear the idle up. if not, then O2 sensors. if not that, then one of those 2 valves on the back of the plenum. i forget which one. but i will post the results
i don't even know what the seats are. but they used to be BRIGHT yellow and i used a spray on die. they do look pretty good. probably a pretty cheap brand. i've seen one's very similar in JC whitney
03-10-2008, 01:35 PM
#16
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made some progress on my high idle. it's been stuck around 1500 to 1800 for a few weeks. i just did some searching on tt.net and found out how to test and service the cold start valve. so i tested it:
squeezed the hose coming from the middle of the balance tube. the idle dropped. this suggests a problem with this valve. so i took the hose off and blasted down there with WD-40. then i blasted the valve from the other side. so now i'm down about 250 RPM. doesn't sound like much, but the car is now A LOT more pleasant.
my next things to try are: TPS, wires going to coolant temp sensor, Otiny2 sensors, and fixing the wires going to the knock sensor.
but here comes my question: i'm pretty sure that there are breaks in the wires to the temp sensor and the knock sensor. (i get intermediate ECU codes for both of them, but putting the resistor in and replacing the sensor it's self hasn't helped either one). so how do i go about fixing these wires?
my only guess is finding thier pins on the ECU, splicing new wires to the old ones very close to the connector, and running all new wires, doing the best that i can to make them out of the way and not unpleasing to the eye. any better ideas?
squeezed the hose coming from the middle of the balance tube. the idle dropped. this suggests a problem with this valve. so i took the hose off and blasted down there with WD-40. then i blasted the valve from the other side. so now i'm down about 250 RPM. doesn't sound like much, but the car is now A LOT more pleasant.
my next things to try are: TPS, wires going to coolant temp sensor, Otiny2 sensors, and fixing the wires going to the knock sensor.
but here comes my question: i'm pretty sure that there are breaks in the wires to the temp sensor and the knock sensor. (i get intermediate ECU codes for both of them, but putting the resistor in and replacing the sensor it's self hasn't helped either one). so how do i go about fixing these wires?
my only guess is finding thier pins on the ECU, splicing new wires to the old ones very close to the connector, and running all new wires, doing the best that i can to make them out of the way and not unpleasing to the eye. any better ideas?
03-10-2008, 05:32 PM
#20
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Originally Posted by b300z
i dont think a 250 rpm idle would be very pleasant
so any ideas on fixing those breaks in the wires?
03-11-2008, 01:08 PM
#21
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here's another strange bit... the idle has always gone up about 200 when the climate control is on (whenever i hit the auto button). now that i cleaned out the cold start valve, it sometimes makes no difference at all in the idle...why would cleaning that valve change the way that the valve concerning climate control worked?
03-11-2008, 02:51 PM
#22
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maybe you should test that instead of just cleaning cause sounds like it might be a little gone. and my idle always changed when i did the same thing but i would hit the econ button and bake to normal it would go.
03-11-2008, 04:10 PM
#23
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i did test it. i did the pinch test. the idle no longer drops when i pich the hose, so that unit is assumed to be working. this things being a bit iffy now. i went in and re-crimped and cleaned some connections on the back of the plenum today. not the idle is down around 1000 as long as that connection stays. almost there!maybe just a combination of TPS and o2 sensors now.
03-14-2008, 10:02 PM
#24
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ok, all said and done, i have the idle down to about 1000 consistantly, as long as i take a wack on some little sensor/valve thingy on the back of the plenum. i'd look up the name and function but i'm too intoxicated. but i re-tested the o2 sensors and the ECU says that they are deffinately not working. the TPS comes next week, then i'll get those with the nect pay check. almost running well!
and BTW, for anyone searching, BAD CARRIER BEARINGS ARE ALMOST ALWAYS CAUSED BY BAD U-JOINTS! NEVER BUY A CARRIER, ALWAYS BUY A 1 PEICE!!!!!
super. damn that. i'm going to need to throw away my brand new carrier and buy an F-ing $400 one piece. a damn shame
oops... wrong thread for that... sorry
and BTW, for anyone searching, BAD CARRIER BEARINGS ARE ALMOST ALWAYS CAUSED BY BAD U-JOINTS! NEVER BUY A CARRIER, ALWAYS BUY A 1 PEICE!!!!!
super. damn that. i'm going to need to throw away my brand new carrier and buy an F-ing $400 one piece. a damn shame
oops... wrong thread for that... sorry
03-14-2008, 10:13 PM
#25
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"sensor/valve thingy on the back of the plenum" is the idle air control valve
if the O2 sensors are malfunctioning, they will cause idle problems and poor gas mileage
1-piece drive shafts are not always the best option - I have the oem unit and am fine with that. If one has the means to pay for a 1-piece, most of the problems with them have been resolved, but there's nothing wrong with stock other than weight.
if the O2 sensors are malfunctioning, they will cause idle problems and poor gas mileage
1-piece drive shafts are not always the best option - I have the oem unit and am fine with that. If one has the means to pay for a 1-piece, most of the problems with them have been resolved, but there's nothing wrong with stock other than weight.
