I first have to say have useful the information is on here. Whenever i have what I think is even the most obscure situation, I find something through the search, so many...MANY thanks!

No on to the show:

I have a 90 NA, have had some problems with the starting of it, through the many hours of research and searching and testing each of the suggestions, I have tracked it down to what I believe is the sylinoid (spelling sucks...sorry). I just want a confirmation if you don't mind of my findings.

I first checked the relay, working fine as evident of passing 12V through the posts and verifying resistence (correct?)I further verify I have the current going through the terminals once the 12V is applied to the relay. So the switch is functioning. (my assumption at least).

Now one item of interest, when I say 12V I am generalizing, there is really only 10V going through, however my charging of the batter via slow trickle method of a charger showed it to be fully charge (slow trickle i mean 2A). I thought that to be odd so measured across terminals on the bat itself, as well as the ground and the positive post, very consitent to be 2V less then what I would expect, I chalked it up to cheap multimeter/poor leads....who knows. Any thoughts on that?

Anywho, with the relay out of the question I took out stock theft deterirent (after of course unlocking all doors, ensuring hood switch is closed, but since those did not achieve the desired results I merely removed the module.) I also visually inspected the column ignition unit, found that to be completely operational.

I went straight for the starter with a starter bypass switch just to test the functionality of the starter. Now please excuse my ignorance i followed my common sense as I did not find an outline of this testing procedure anywhere, but I put one end of a switched jumper to the positive terminal of the battery, then the other end to the point of entry of the hotwire to the starter. (the selinoid that is). (btw this measured at 10V as well). This had no effect when I closed the switch to bypass all other electrical units. Now when I go to the starter side of the silanoid I get a turning over, however does not sound normal, meaning sounds like a go cart engine or something, however visually I do see the cranking mechanisms occuring.

So I assume the sylloid boosts the power delievered to the starter by some means (correct again, excuse my ignorance) which is not happening here thus the inability to start. Next question is should this not just start with that circuit in place? I have the keys in the on position of the car, but like I said sounds like no spark is taking place. Any ideas?

Specific questions are:
Is the power transfered to the starter via the sillanoid dependent on the base voltage of 12 V?

Can the sillanoid be replaced independantly of the starter?

The NA is an automatic, I know there is some sort of start kill to prevent in gear starting. chould his be the issue as well.

Thanks so much guys, I know I probably just need a swift kick in the a$$ over all of this, but perhpas my question will also be asked by another..

Once agan....thankz for the


Am I heading down the right path here guys?

 

DOes it do anything when you try to start it? I.E., does it turn over, does it grind, does it click or does it not make a sound?

 

haveyou checked the ecu??

 

The ECU has almost nothing to do with the starter, so that can't be the problem. In this case, it's either the battery or the starter, as you eliminated the theft deterrent possibilities and the relay. (By the way, you didn't even really have the check the alarm system - if that was the problem, the alarm would likely be going off while you were trying to start it, so it'd be very obvious that it was the problem.)

10V from the battery is bad. No results from jumping the starter is also bad.

My advice: take both the battery and the starter to AutoZone (or Advance Auto Parts). They will test both the battery and the starter for free. Since it is free to test, there is absolutely NO reason not to (the starter isn't hard to remove, either). Please do yourself and us a favor and do not continue asking us diagnostic questions until you have taken it in to be tested. We cannot tell you more than that test can, and it's free and easy.

You cannot replace the solenoid (that's how it's spelled... and in the future, when in doubt, dictionary.com will suggest alternative spellings if you spell it wrong). The starter is probably dead and will need to be replaced entirely (but AutoZone has a lifetime warranty on their starters, so if it ever goes bad again, they'll replace it for free).

And like I said, your battery is probably shot too.

 

Your reply has been heard and recognize my lack of knowledge, your advice is greatly appreciated. I even appreicate your attempt to educate my inability to use word check.

I have done as, well not exactly, I replaced the battery as well as the starter. Both relatively inexpensive and I had them both out so wanted to provide the cleanest of enviornments for further testing if need should arise.

Unfortunately need has arisen.

I have discovered the non engaging sound the started was making when a direct circuit to the power source was normal. So that did make me feel a bit better.

Now for the details of this stage of the issue resolvment:

New battery has me sitting at 13.0 at the terminals, at the terminal(+) to engine wall, and finally...at the point of entry to the starter when the car is turned over.

The only reason for my thought on the alarm was that I don't have a stock horn functional in the auto, so an audible response would not be as apparent as one might believe.

I am curious to get some feedback regarding the ignition kill function as dictated by the gear the transmission finds itself in, i.e. I know that Park and Neutral are the only two postion (of course this makes sense) in which the car can be started normally. I wonder now if this has in some way has become an area of concern. Where is this component/circuit, and where can I find documentation on this. I have not been successful in my search attempts regarding this. I am not sure if I even know what this functionality would be known as.

Thanks ever so much. Criticism is always appreciated by those who are able and willing to provide their time in assistance to the rest of us not so z-gifted., knowledge is always obtainable in such arenas of

Thanks all

 

Yes, for starters the battery is bad. fwiw, alot of batterys that you can buy nowadays are not maintenance-free. If you look at your battery, and there are caps that can be removed, I would amost guarantee that you'd find one of the six cells is low on fluid and the lead plates are exposed to the air. Hence the 10 volts. (1 cell = 2v X 6 cells) There is no fixing this, even by re-filling the fluid.

If your battery is maintenance-free, you still have a dead cell.

Once this problem is fixed, let us know how it starts up.

Edit: we were typing at the same time. Does the car now turn over by turning the key?

 

Bought a new battery and installed the new starter, still not working.

Where is the transmission lock switch? I'm not sure that is what it is called, what I am thinking of is the switch that prevents starting the car while in any other position then Park and Neutral.

At this point, I don't know what else this could be. It does not act any differently if started in the other gears. I am out of ideas at this point. Anyone have any ideas?

 

auto or manual? Did you have the starter and battery tested before replacing them or did you just buy new stuff before you knew they were bad?

 

If it's a 5 speed, then there is no neutral safety switch. You just need to push in the clutch. If it's an automatic, then it's a possibility; however I've never seen one fail.

Check the main ground...located behind the battery to make sure it isn't broken or corroded. Have you checked all of the fuses; including the main fuse?

 

he said Park and Neutral so i would assume its an auto.

 

Good call.

In that case, the switch is usually on the shifter itself (underneath the consol).

 

Missed that key little point....illiteracy owns me.....