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Radiator Question

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Old 10-03-2010 | 05:38 AM
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Radiator Question

So the plastic upper hose fitting is shot on the top of the radiator. Can anyone suggest a good OEM replacement? The car is a stock 92 non-turbo 5 speed manual.

I've been looking around and have seen numerous manufacturers such as SILLA, KOYO, SPECTRA, CSF. Is one better than another?

This is my first Z. I have a 91 Jeep Renegade I've built for off road use so working on the Z shouldn't be a problem other than working in "TIGHT" quarters!

Thanks for any feedback.

Glenn
Old 10-03-2010 | 10:11 AM
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If your car is an NA and you don't heavily track it, just find a used stock one... you won't really benefit from the additional capacity of the larger KOYO and similar radiators.

If you're hell bent on an aftermarket radiator, KOYO seems to be the most popular among the Z32 world... but to be honest, I was of the impression that most aftermarket radiators are designed for the Twin Turbo, which won't bolt into an NA without modification.
Old 10-03-2010 | 10:14 AM
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Unless you get a N/A to TT radiator mount kit.
Old 10-03-2010 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by ZLover4Life
If your car is an NA and you don't heavily track it, just find a used stock one... you won't really benefit from the additional capacity of the larger KOYO and similar radiators.

If you're hell bent on an aftermarket radiator, KOYO seems to be the most popular among the Z32 world... but to be honest, I was of the impression that most aftermarket radiators are designed for the Twin Turbo, which won't bolt into an NA without modification.
It's NA and won't see a track. It's just another toy. I just pulled it and will run over to Advanced Auto and see what they have. I was just looking for a aftermarket replacement...nothing fancy. just the same basic radiator.

Thanks for the reply.
Old 10-03-2010 | 01:44 PM
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Just ordered a "Ready-Rad" radiator from Advanced Auto for $129. Should be here in the AM so we should be back in business tomorrow.

Thanks for the replies.
Old 10-03-2010 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by BlueKitsune
Unless you get a N/A to TT radiator mount kit.
...

Originally Posted by ZLover4Life
designed for the Twin Turbo, which won't bolt into an NA without modification.
... is a mount kit somehow not modification?
Old 10-03-2010 | 07:03 PM
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Er, I think when I read it I thought you mean like cutting the mounts and moving them or something of the like. And I was thinking of a bolt on kit thats removable later if need be.
Old 10-03-2010 | 08:11 PM
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The bottom line is that you cannot just put a TT radiator into an NA without changing the mount... changing = modifying.
Old 10-03-2010 | 08:19 PM
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Its an adapter actually. but your right.
Old 10-03-2010 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ZLover4Life
The bottom line is that you cannot just put a TT radiator into an NA without changing the mount... changing = modifying.
Just use zip ties and duct tape!



lol, it's pretty easy to make new radiator mounts for the z32.
Old 10-03-2010 | 09:52 PM
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"Easy" is relative. To me, it's easy to pull a VG30DETT and replace turbos. With no knowledge of the OP's mechanical skills, are you guaranteeing that it's "pretty easy to make new radiator mounts for the Z32"?

I was simply making the OP aware that it's not as simple as purchasing a TT aftermarket radiator and putting it in his NA... it was you guys who decided I was implying that it's exceedingly difficult.
Old 10-04-2010 | 10:30 AM
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Now that the radiator is out it appears that there is some fluid dripping down from the water pump. Funny thing is that didn't seem to be a problem prior to pulling the radiator. The radiator had to be replaced because the top inlet was shot...gone actually.
Radiator Question-1003001612a.jpg

While we were under it it looks like the rear main will also be replaced. With the tranny out it will be a good time to install a clutch kit and have the flywheel resurfaced...and seeing that the DS is out, I can change the center bearing and get rid of that vibration! Any thoughts on a one piece DS?
Radiator Question-1003001614a.jpg
Radiator Question-1003001614b.jpg

Looks like we have ourselves a "winter project"!
Old 10-04-2010 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ZLover4Life
"Easy" is relative. To me, it's easy to pull a VG30DETT and replace turbos. With no knowledge of the OP's mechanical skills, are you guaranteeing that it's "pretty easy to make new radiator mounts for the Z32"?
True enough.
Old 10-04-2010 | 03:28 PM
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I have a single piece, i like it, but i never replaced the bearing in my oe one so i couldnt tell you the difference. Mine was shot when I first got it. Would be a good time to throw some headers on if you were interested in that.

Good luck stabbing that trans back on, it aint easy.

If youre going to do your water pump, you might as well do the timing kit as well.
Old 10-04-2010 | 04:47 PM
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I'm anti-1-piece. Hit or miss regarding the chance of vibration, and then there's the fact that Nissan chose to go 2-piece for a reason.

Factory Nissan design the 2 pc shaft not because it's harder to build a "consistently smooth" 1 pc shaft, in fact, it's easier and much cheaper to build. 2 pc shaft has much shorter center to center length, thus 1st bending frequency is very high. That means shaft critical speed will be very high (could be over 20k rpm) which the Z will never see this speed even at vmax.
...
Note: this speed has nothing to do with balancing. A perfect balance shaft will be the same.
Basically, a 2 piece can handle higher rotational speeds (i.e. higher vehicle speeds) MUCH more easily than a 1 piece.


And regarding headers, do your research before making that purchase. Some people say they're pretty much useless.
Old 10-04-2010 | 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by ZLover4Life
I'm anti-1-piece. Hit or miss regarding the chance of vibration, and then there's the fact that Nissan chose to go 2-piece for a reason.



Basically, a 2 piece can handle higher rotational speeds (i.e. higher vehicle speeds) MUCH more easily than a 1 piece.


And regarding headers, do your research before making that purchase. Some people say they're pretty much useless.
Same feeling on the drive shaft. Shorted is easier to balance and thus less prone to vibration. I have a split drive shaft on my first car...35 years ago...a 72 Toyota Celica. Had to replace the center bearing in that car too.

My jeep has a 4" suspension lift with 5/8 shackles. I installed a Slip Yoke Eliminator on the transfer case and installed a custom CV drive shaft. The wranglers have the shortest rear drive shaft I've ever seen. Without the CV shaft the u-joints will bind because the shaft is so short when you start lifting them.

Are the u-joints replaceable on the Z drive shafts? Good time to go through the drive shaft as well.

Not planning on headers but will replace the exhaust.
Old 10-04-2010 | 06:16 PM
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U-joints on the Z32 are not serviceable. I've only heard of 1 person having bad u-joints, though... he's on this forum and will likely chime in saying to get a 1-piece.
Old 10-04-2010 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by domsgarage
I have a single piece, i like it, but i never replaced the bearing in my oe one so i couldnt tell you the difference. Mine was shot when I first got it. Would be a good time to throw some headers on if you were interested in that.

Good luck stabbing that trans back on, it aint easy.

If youre going to do your water pump, you might as well do the timing kit as well.
With the belts exposed I was thinking the same thing! I've replaced a few clutches in my day and most of them were a pain in the A$$! Easiest was the 79 RX7! Tranny weighed nothing and had plenty of room to work.
Old 10-04-2010 | 06:25 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by ZLover4Life
U-joints on the Z32 are not serviceable. I've only heard of 1 person having bad u-joints, though... he's on this forum and will likely chime in saying to get a 1-piece.
I looked at them quickly a while ago and didn't see any play so hopefully they are fine. The center bearing is definitely bad. Now that the whole car is lifted I'll take a good look at them. I can only imagine what a new split DS would cost.
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