Radiator Question
#1
Radiator Question
So the plastic upper hose fitting is shot on the top of the radiator. Can anyone suggest a good OEM replacement? The car is a stock 92 non-turbo 5 speed manual.
I've been looking around and have seen numerous manufacturers such as SILLA, KOYO, SPECTRA, CSF. Is one better than another?
This is my first Z. I have a 91 Jeep Renegade I've built for off road use so working on the Z shouldn't be a problem other than working in "TIGHT" quarters!
Thanks for any feedback.
Glenn
I've been looking around and have seen numerous manufacturers such as SILLA, KOYO, SPECTRA, CSF. Is one better than another?
This is my first Z. I have a 91 Jeep Renegade I've built for off road use so working on the Z shouldn't be a problem other than working in "TIGHT" quarters!
Thanks for any feedback.
Glenn
#2
If your car is an NA and you don't heavily track it, just find a used stock one... you won't really benefit from the additional capacity of the larger KOYO and similar radiators.
If you're hell bent on an aftermarket radiator, KOYO seems to be the most popular among the Z32 world... but to be honest, I was of the impression that most aftermarket radiators are designed for the Twin Turbo, which won't bolt into an NA without modification.
If you're hell bent on an aftermarket radiator, KOYO seems to be the most popular among the Z32 world... but to be honest, I was of the impression that most aftermarket radiators are designed for the Twin Turbo, which won't bolt into an NA without modification.
#4
If your car is an NA and you don't heavily track it, just find a used stock one... you won't really benefit from the additional capacity of the larger KOYO and similar radiators.
If you're hell bent on an aftermarket radiator, KOYO seems to be the most popular among the Z32 world... but to be honest, I was of the impression that most aftermarket radiators are designed for the Twin Turbo, which won't bolt into an NA without modification.
If you're hell bent on an aftermarket radiator, KOYO seems to be the most popular among the Z32 world... but to be honest, I was of the impression that most aftermarket radiators are designed for the Twin Turbo, which won't bolt into an NA without modification.
Thanks for the reply.
#6
#10
#11
"Easy" is relative. To me, it's easy to pull a VG30DETT and replace turbos. With no knowledge of the OP's mechanical skills, are you guaranteeing that it's "pretty easy to make new radiator mounts for the Z32"?
I was simply making the OP aware that it's not as simple as purchasing a TT aftermarket radiator and putting it in his NA... it was you guys who decided I was implying that it's exceedingly difficult.
I was simply making the OP aware that it's not as simple as purchasing a TT aftermarket radiator and putting it in his NA... it was you guys who decided I was implying that it's exceedingly difficult.
#12
Now that the radiator is out it appears that there is some fluid dripping down from the water pump. Funny thing is that didn't seem to be a problem prior to pulling the radiator. The radiator had to be replaced because the top inlet was shot...gone actually.
While we were under it it looks like the rear main will also be replaced. With the tranny out it will be a good time to install a clutch kit and have the flywheel resurfaced...and seeing that the DS is out, I can change the center bearing and get rid of that vibration! Any thoughts on a one piece DS?
Looks like we have ourselves a "winter project"!
While we were under it it looks like the rear main will also be replaced. With the tranny out it will be a good time to install a clutch kit and have the flywheel resurfaced...and seeing that the DS is out, I can change the center bearing and get rid of that vibration! Any thoughts on a one piece DS?
Looks like we have ourselves a "winter project"!
#13
#14
I have a single piece, i like it, but i never replaced the bearing in my oe one so i couldnt tell you the difference. Mine was shot when I first got it. Would be a good time to throw some headers on if you were interested in that.
Good luck stabbing that trans back on, it aint easy.
If youre going to do your water pump, you might as well do the timing kit as well.
Good luck stabbing that trans back on, it aint easy.
If youre going to do your water pump, you might as well do the timing kit as well.
#15
I'm anti-1-piece. Hit or miss regarding the chance of vibration, and then there's the fact that Nissan chose to go 2-piece for a reason.
Basically, a 2 piece can handle higher rotational speeds (i.e. higher vehicle speeds) MUCH more easily than a 1 piece.
And regarding headers, do your research before making that purchase. Some people say they're pretty much useless.
Factory Nissan design the 2 pc shaft not because it's harder to build a "consistently smooth" 1 pc shaft, in fact, it's easier and much cheaper to build. 2 pc shaft has much shorter center to center length, thus 1st bending frequency is very high. That means shaft critical speed will be very high (could be over 20k rpm) which the Z will never see this speed even at vmax.
...
Note: this speed has nothing to do with balancing. A perfect balance shaft will be the same.
...
Note: this speed has nothing to do with balancing. A perfect balance shaft will be the same.
And regarding headers, do your research before making that purchase. Some people say they're pretty much useless.
#16
I'm anti-1-piece. Hit or miss regarding the chance of vibration, and then there's the fact that Nissan chose to go 2-piece for a reason.
Basically, a 2 piece can handle higher rotational speeds (i.e. higher vehicle speeds) MUCH more easily than a 1 piece.
And regarding headers, do your research before making that purchase. Some people say they're pretty much useless.
Basically, a 2 piece can handle higher rotational speeds (i.e. higher vehicle speeds) MUCH more easily than a 1 piece.
And regarding headers, do your research before making that purchase. Some people say they're pretty much useless.
My jeep has a 4" suspension lift with 5/8 shackles. I installed a Slip Yoke Eliminator on the transfer case and installed a custom CV drive shaft. The wranglers have the shortest rear drive shaft I've ever seen. Without the CV shaft the u-joints will bind because the shaft is so short when you start lifting them.
Are the u-joints replaceable on the Z drive shafts? Good time to go through the drive shaft as well.
Not planning on headers but will replace the exhaust.
#18
I have a single piece, i like it, but i never replaced the bearing in my oe one so i couldnt tell you the difference. Mine was shot when I first got it. Would be a good time to throw some headers on if you were interested in that.
Good luck stabbing that trans back on, it aint easy.
If youre going to do your water pump, you might as well do the timing kit as well.
Good luck stabbing that trans back on, it aint easy.
If youre going to do your water pump, you might as well do the timing kit as well.
#19
I looked at them quickly a while ago and didn't see any play so hopefully they are fine. The center bearing is definitely bad. Now that the whole car is lifted I'll take a good look at them. I can only imagine what a new split DS would cost.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
SoNotaMechanic
300ZX (Z31) Appearance Exterior, Interior
1
03-09-2011 01:03 AM
WhtFairLadyZ
300ZX (Z32) Performance / Technical
7
08-25-2004 04:01 PM
Bookmarks