JohannB

Many, many thanks to those who helped me with my fuel leak.

Now I need to replace my leaking water pump. Is it possible to do this WITHOUT removing the crank pulley... or is the pulley in such a position that it blocks access to the water pump bolts, making it necessary to remove it before the water pump can be removed?

Also, what should I use to seal the new water pump. A gasket or a sealer like silicone?

If it is possible to do the job without removing the pulley, any tips would be helpful. all I have is an open carport to work on the car... so I don't want to spend any more time in the weather than I have to.

Any help is greatly appreciated
Thanks!
Johann
visions2001@att.net

ZLover4Life

No, the pulley MUST come off because there is a bolt that cannot be removed without the lower timing cover removed, which requires the pulley to be removed.

There is a paper gasket for the water pump, I believe. Silicon gasket would probably work, but be very careful with applying it since if you go too heavy it can accumulate inside the pump and cause damage.

KasbeKZ

most water pumps i do, i use the paper gasket and a little tiny bit of gasket maker. it works great and i feel secure. i've never had a water pump leak from the gasket!

napoleonzheking

use the paper gasket, it's much easier to work with than silicone. they're cheap.

JohannB

Once again, thanks for the quick replies and the advice. Looks like I'll be yanking the pulley. I don't have a torque wrench, so I won't be able to get an accurate torque when I re-attach it. I never worried about that in the old days... (60's and '70's) but today's engines are much more precisely made.

One other thing while I'm here: What do you guys recommend to clean the engine? Gunk and similar products work great on greasy and oily stains.... but do very little for other grime. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance
Johann
visions2001@att.net

KasbeKZ

clean the inside or the outside? for the outside, purple power usually does the trick for me. if it needs to be even stronger, try either kerosene, or varsol/paint thinner/mineral spirits. everyone calls it something different and most people i mention it to only know one name, so i said all 3 i know lol. btw, kerosene would be least recommended by me.

on torquing the pulley, a good rule of thumb on it will be that if you use a breaker bar that's about 2 1/4 ft long or so, you should be pushing it every bit of as hard as you can unless you are a body builder. you'll need a pipe to get it off, and every bit of strength you have and a breaker bar should get it back pretty closely, if you can't get your hands on a torque wrench.

ZLover4Life

^ 2nd. But do NOT spray the hell out of the engine with water OR solvent. Clean small areas at a time and rinse with very little water, because there are WAY too many electrical connections in that bay and you don't want them getting too wet.

JohannB

I think that may be why I'm having rough idle and surging problems. Last spring, I had a water hose burst under the plenum. Water went everywhere.

Then, a few months later, my top radiator hose went.... and more water went all over the engine. I haven't had a chance to clean all the electrical connectors since this happened, and I hope that's what the problem is.

My car is now 20 years old, (Build date was Nov '89) and everything is starting to go. I'm self-employed, and my sales have been way off for 2 years now... and it's a real problem maintaining the car because parts for this thing are so expensive.

By the way, my business is decals... so if anyone needs anything I can do custom orders. Email me at visions2001@att.net for information.

Thanks for all your help!
Johann

KasbeKZ

oh bummer we just ordered decals. you're a second too late.

JohannB

Story of my life Oh well... keep me in mind. I can make a decal of anything... all I need is a picture for reference. I can go up to 8x10" in size. Larger decals can be printed in separate parts. I've done several that way before for large items.

Thanks!
Johann