nascar

I am planning on painting the hood of my car. I was told by someone that I needed to wet sand my hood before I paint it. Would something like this work?

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/p-12829-15974.aspx

NismoPick

That's the expensive way to do it... Or you could use a basic block and use a water hose.

And since you're asking this question: I take it you've never wet sanded or painted before?

KasbeKZ

keep in mind the only reason to wet sand is to keep the dust out of the paper. if you don't feel like doing that, i always just have good methods for cleaning the paper off regularly. and i blow the car off frequently too.

duowing

that's pretty cool for wet sanding. It might make it go just a little quicker as you wouldn't have to stop to clean off the paper, but that's money I can spend on sandpaper. It's easy enough to take the hose and the rubber block you can get for a few bucks at home depot. Just spray the car, spray the paper, sand. Keep spraying down the spot every so often to clean off the extra paint that's come away and keep it clean, hose down the paper to clean the sanding dust out and keep going.

260zturbo

a simple squirt bottle does the same. all you need is 400 grit paper on a block with h20. BUT also iv been to shops that have used 400 grit sand paper on a da with no water. you dont want to sand one spot to long or you will burn through. mainly when you sand with 400 you are taking off the clear coat and going into the paint. also cutting down all orange peel. now if you have alot of paint on your hood.(been painted multiple times ) i suggest sanding it down with 240 on a da then wet sanding it with 400. also be careful what type of paint you use. i have no clue what year or what the previous owner put on it. lets say you have urethane paint. you cannot use acrylic or latex paint. you just gonna cause yourself more headaches. thats just my .02 cents

snwbrderphat540

hell yeah you dont need to wet sand, just sand however the **** you want to get some of the paint down and then you usually do a lite wet sand jsut to smooth it out a little spray rub then clear... its important to wet sand clear though always wet sand it till all the peel is down use like 1000 then i would add another coat repeat and then finish it up with a lite sanding of 2000 then buff....

Comorat2x2

Not this. Sorry duder but if you want to completely hose up a paint job, do it this way.

If you want to do it right get a block and 400+ grit and a garden hose. Run teh water constantly, make light passes in a circular motion until the finish feels like glass. Do it slow, do it right and do it once.

duowing

He's talking about once you're done and after you've sprayed the clear over it.

snwbrderphat540

yeah dude, i think i know what im talking about... seeing as ive painted 2 full cars before...

KasbeKZ

i've painted a car twice (had a primer defect) and i never needed to buff or wet sand. and it was seriously one of the best finishes i've ever seen. i took a lot of time on it. do it right and you don't need to wet sand or buff

snwbrderphat540

yes... you do, for clear coat. dont be such a noob ever watch profesionals, they wouldnt touch a cleared surface with anything other than a fine grit wet sand. thats how primer should be done to wet but not fine around 500 grit. and i painted 2 cars. only once. lol. the other one is getting re-done right now from neglect though. not a painting defect.

KingDatsun1

x2 lol I used a piece of wood with sandpaper stapled to it. and a garden hose.

KasbeKZ

you don't be such a noob. base clear isn't the only way to go.

and i don't know what you're saying about you only having to do yours once. it wasn't my fault. the guy that sold me the primers said that i could use the high build for etching primer if i mixed it thinner, so i did it. i won't do it again.

snwbrderphat540

lol i got an actual sanding block... staples and wood dont belong around fresh paint. and base/clear is the only way to go, using the single stage doesnt look as good doesnt last as long and is WAY to easy to work with for the proper paint experience lol.

KasbeKZ

i like single stage on some cars. mostly older cars.

seriously on that block though. you need some good sanding blocks. hard blocks are for doing bondo... you need something that is flexible after you start spraying

260zturbo

you dont sand in circular motions. thats how you cut grooves. and you can use a hard block for wetsanding. i personally find it easier with a block that has mass then a foam block. its personal preference.

KasbeKZ

sanding with a hard block makes flat spots. granted, with such a fine grit being used, they may be hardly noticeable, but they are there. for the absolute best finish, use a soft block. and yes, no circular motions. diagonal motions.

Comorat2x2

Got me on the circles to be sure, jesus christ....I must have been thinking about waxing or something. Its this job, it's giving me drain bamage...