Z's been dead for 2 weeks now.
08-05-2009, 04:42 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Somewherein, TX
Posts: 18
Z's been dead for 2 weeks now.
And i'm getting aggravated trying to get it running again. Long story so grab a beer and a sandwich, lol.
Story:
The car died 3 weeks ago in front of my old work. I got one of the guys from my new shop to take me out to the car and we jumped it. It started fine. Drove fine. Took it to work the next day with the intentions of doing the wheel bearings and upper control arms. Car dies again after I clean the inch(exaggeration of course) of carbon build up off the throttle bodies. Starts after a jump and quickly dies out. I find that my ECU/ECM had a short and blew sky high. I buy a new one off craigslist from this guy that had a 1990 NA just like mine. It works to an extent. It would crank and almost turnover. What's wrong.. I checked my relays to find that the EGI relay is bad.. I buy a new one.. Still no start. No clue. Get around the car a little bit more.. Clean up my NGK-R Spark plugs.. They're fine. I unplug my Mass Air Flow Sensor just to do it and try and start it. IT STARTS!! Plug it back in.. It dies.. There's my problem right? No. I get the new one in and the same problem happens. Unplug it and take it home cuz it's been in my shop for like a week at this point. On the ride home I noticed this.. While the MAF is unplugged it idles PERFECT. It is also in like this.. "Limp-In Mode." The car makes it through all the gears, drives fine. BUT I can't go over 2500 rpm. So I got it here at home, and it's been sitting for another week and I go to try and start it today, and it has no juice. Parasitic draw from somewhere?
And thus concludes this novel.
Story:
The car died 3 weeks ago in front of my old work. I got one of the guys from my new shop to take me out to the car and we jumped it. It started fine. Drove fine. Took it to work the next day with the intentions of doing the wheel bearings and upper control arms. Car dies again after I clean the inch(exaggeration of course) of carbon build up off the throttle bodies. Starts after a jump and quickly dies out. I find that my ECU/ECM had a short and blew sky high. I buy a new one off craigslist from this guy that had a 1990 NA just like mine. It works to an extent. It would crank and almost turnover. What's wrong.. I checked my relays to find that the EGI relay is bad.. I buy a new one.. Still no start. No clue. Get around the car a little bit more.. Clean up my NGK-R Spark plugs.. They're fine. I unplug my Mass Air Flow Sensor just to do it and try and start it. IT STARTS!! Plug it back in.. It dies.. There's my problem right? No. I get the new one in and the same problem happens. Unplug it and take it home cuz it's been in my shop for like a week at this point. On the ride home I noticed this.. While the MAF is unplugged it idles PERFECT. It is also in like this.. "Limp-In Mode." The car makes it through all the gears, drives fine. BUT I can't go over 2500 rpm. So I got it here at home, and it's been sitting for another week and I go to try and start it today, and it has no juice. Parasitic draw from somewhere?
And thus concludes this novel.
08-11-2009, 09:37 PM
#2
Tough Guy
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: NJ
Posts: 851
is the maf new or new to you. could still be an issue if you got a used one.
if the ecu shorted out, it could be a short in the wires leading into it, which would suck for obvious reasons.
im not positive, but im going to assume theres some sort of check you can do on the harness with a volt gauge, im not sure though.
sounds like a **** problem, good luck.
it does sound like the maf is a problem, the symptoms you listed are kind of typical.
if the ecu shorted out, it could be a short in the wires leading into it, which would suck for obvious reasons.
im not positive, but im going to assume theres some sort of check you can do on the harness with a volt gauge, im not sure though.
sounds like a **** problem, good luck.
it does sound like the maf is a problem, the symptoms you listed are kind of typical.
08-12-2009, 07:46 AM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 341
I don't claim to know anything about those, but if I were in that situation, I'd be finding me a FACTORY service amnual and following there diagnosis procedures. It's pretty obvious at this point that it's got you stumped(I probably would be too) so why not use the generally real well laid out FSM??
They may even be available on line for little or nothing. My car came with 2, a factory one and a Haynes, which I promptly threw away.(the Haynes)
My manual, and the ones I saw from Nissans in the 70's have always been real well done fae as I can see.
They may even be available on line for little or nothing. My car came with 2, a factory one and a Haynes, which I promptly threw away.(the Haynes)
My manual, and the ones I saw from Nissans in the 70's have always been real well done fae as I can see.
08-12-2009, 11:00 AM
#4
Tough Guy
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: NJ
Posts: 851
theres an online manual for the car, to my recollection, haynes never made a manual for the z32.
http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi
http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi
08-12-2009, 11:30 AM
#5
F5 Hero
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Little Rock, Arkansas
Posts: 855
no haynes, and i'd check the maf... is it new? or new to you? You NEED a z32 maf, only those work properly, and look exactly like the maxima maf's (i wanna say maxima, might be altima, i can't remember), but they aren't. A lot of people will run scams saying z32 maf but it's really a look a like.
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