120k service advice
03-31-2004 | 10:49 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
120k service advice
I'm sitting right around 119k right now so i'm gathering parts.
So far I have:
3 quarts of Red Line MT-90 gear oil
UR Underdrive crank pulley
What I need advice on:
which timing belt kit to get kit 1 or kit 2, the only difference is an idler pulley and a secondary tensioner pulley. I was wondering who of the 120k+ crowd replaced those parts.
Spark plugs, which NGK's to get for my mods listed below, stock or colder? I dont plan on ignition upgrades anytime soon so I'm assuming stock.
And finally, anything else I would need. (PCV hoses?)
Thanks for your help!
So far I have:
3 quarts of Red Line MT-90 gear oil
UR Underdrive crank pulley
What I need advice on:
which timing belt kit to get kit 1 or kit 2, the only difference is an idler pulley and a secondary tensioner pulley. I was wondering who of the 120k+ crowd replaced those parts.
Spark plugs, which NGK's to get for my mods listed below, stock or colder? I dont plan on ignition upgrades anytime soon so I'm assuming stock.
And finally, anything else I would need. (PCV hoses?)
Thanks for your help!
03-31-2004 | 11:46 AM
#2
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,672
From: Gerber, CA
The idler pulleys are recommended to be replaced at 120k. I did mine at 145k. They looked fine, but you never know for sure. Go with kit 2. I'm personally not a big fan of waterpump gaskets. If you don't get it tightenend down just right, they can leak. You can get a silicone based gasket material at any local auto parts store. Other than that, it looks good.
03-31-2004 | 05:43 PM
#3
Administrative Brown Guy
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,406
From: Ontario, Canada
pcv valves themselves would be good. Fuel filter if not already done. Clean your air filter. Change the oil. You'll need coolant/antifreeze since you'll need to drain the radiator. Distilled water to mix it with. You'll also need a pulley puller tool to remove the pulleys.
04-05-2004 | 04:55 PM
#6
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,672
From: Gerber, CA
Hey, just for fun, why don't you buy the ASHSPEC ECU. Check out z1motorsports.com. You don't need it for the 120k service, but since you're doing all this maintenance stuff, why not add a performance mod to make it a little more fun.
04-06-2004 | 05:36 AM
#7
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Posts: n/a
eh, thats $300 plus a 300 core, just for fun? I'm already sitting right around $800 of parts with the new crank pulley. I'd probably get a pair of headers before an ECU for a higher return on my investment. I'd throw every part at it when I'm out of school, but mommy and daddy don't pay my tuition bills, so it will have to wait. 
04-06-2004 | 01:12 PM
#9
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Posts: n/a
I understand what a core charge is, thats why I called it a "300 core," I would still have to pay it up front. Ceramic coated headers are $575 and according to Stillen, "...the most significant power modification for a non-turbo Z," for "...up to 16 rear wheel horsepower."
If the ASHSPEC ECU can give me better numbers than that, I would be interested. However dyno tested numbers are not listed on the website, and when I emailed Ash Powers in February he didn't give me numbers either so I wasn't sure how much it could do. I've seen the dyno results on TT.net showing the ASHSPEC with about 15hp more than the JWT ECU (in an N/A). So in that case it looks be a big step up.
I'll have to look into it some more, thanks for reminding me tho
Must make more money!
If the ASHSPEC ECU can give me better numbers than that, I would be interested. However dyno tested numbers are not listed on the website, and when I emailed Ash Powers in February he didn't give me numbers either so I wasn't sure how much it could do. I've seen the dyno results on TT.net showing the ASHSPEC with about 15hp more than the JWT ECU (in an N/A). So in that case it looks be a big step up.
I'll have to look into it some more, thanks for reminding me tho
Must make more money!
04-06-2004 | 01:22 PM
#10
Administrative Brown Guy
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,406
From: Ontario, Canada
If you don't mind having your car down for a little while, you can send in your ecu. That way you'll avoid the core charge. If you pay for the overnight shipping both ways, you'll get it sooner.
04-06-2004 | 01:34 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Yeah I know what you mean, but the big issue is the money. I cant afford to overnight parts here and there. I can wait till I have the funds up front. This is helping me get lots of ideas tho, thanks again.
p.s. 91zxtt's car sounds NICE, without mufflers? hmm...ideas brewing
p.s. 91zxtt's car sounds NICE, without mufflers? hmm...ideas brewing
04-06-2004 | 02:37 PM
#14
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,672
From: Gerber, CA
Thank you for the compliments. I've been meaning to get some pictures of my Z on here, but haven't had the time. I don't know about going with no-mufflers. The turbos absorb a lot of the exhaust sounds, but without mufflers at all it'd probably be too loud. Plus, there would be minimal gains in performance by removing the mufflers.
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