I plan on buying a 90 TT and i was wondering how long the car will last before some major repairs are needed on it. And is it true that the 5 speeds have 300hp and the automatic have only 280? I plan on getting a body kit ( front spoiler, side skirts and fin of some sort) and a BOV, intake, exhaust, what about turning up the boost, what does the stock boost run at and how much can you safely turn it up without causing any damage to the turbos. and how much power do you gain from turning it up. Is it worth the money for a front strut bar, how much and is there a big difference? And do the performance shocks and springs lower your car so much that it could damage the body kit, how high will it be off the ground? and is there anything else i should know about buying a 90 300zx TT or something i should be watching out for. With all that said and done what kind of et's am i looking at. If anyone can answer all that i thank you very much.

 

ok here we go...

auto or manual? = both come stock at 300 hp the j-spec engine is the one that comes stock at 280hp

BOV = worthless it does nothing just get a biger wastegate all the bov does is add a little sound affects

Intake = make sure you get one that is desinged for a TT and yes it does add some more hp not a ton but some

exhaust = same as intake make sure you get one for the TT and yes you will feel more power

boost = a boost controler from hks or greddy should help as for what to turn it up to im not sure my friend craig when he drags hit almost 2 psi on the stock turbos how i dont know but he does

front strut tower bar = yes it is worth it if you take hard corners at fast speeds especialy worth it if you race on closed circuts

shocks and springs = (coilover kits) yes they do lower your car but most of them are adjustable anywhere to .5" to 2" you can adjust them your self so you should be ok there

buy a TT = make sure the turbos are still good ask if he replaced or rebuilt them, check the whole car inside and out and underneath check everything be **** when you are looking at the car and make sure you have time alone to look at it by yourself without anyone around so you can look at everylittle edge wire and everything test drive it several times and dont get the first time buyers twitch...meaning dont fall in love at the car and want to buy it right away...there is a lot more when looking at the car but im getting pressed for time and have to get back to work i am sure some of the other guys out there will be glad to help you on that note good luck have fun and welcome to the z family

mike

90 3zx2 n/a 2+2
shes a work in progress!

 

I was told that the BOV's will reduce turbo lag if you use them continuesly, and they add to the life of the turbo? How long will the turbo's last usually before needing to be rebuilt, and how much does it cost to get them rebuilt? thanks

 

First off;

Actually the automatic TT do have 280 hp; check out www.twinturbo.net then goto "FAQ", then scroll down to "Engine-Drivetrain, Misc:" and "does my automatic TT really have 20 less hp...."

I'm believe stock boost is around 9psi. Without an ecu upgrade do not go higher than 12psi; with ecu you can run about 14.5psi safely. With intake, exhuast, and ecu you will be running about 400 flywheel hp.

Now about the BOV. Their purpose is you release the built up pressure in the intake when the throttle-bodies are shut. Now this is good because with the pressure released it allows the turbos compressor wheel to continue spinning. If the gasses were held in the compressor would slow down causing lag. But the Z has something better than BOVs, they are called recirculatory valves. These reciculate the air through the intake eliminating the need for BOVs, they allow the compressor wheel to keep spinning and does not release this air back into the atmosphere, not running the engine rich for a split second.

Why get BOV's? The stock recic valves are no longer effective above 500hp and you need them. Besides that they are unecessary besides the cool sound they make.

Turbos generally last anywhere from 80k miles to 130k miles, depends on how they were taken care of. They cost $3000 for new ones and about $2000 for rebuilt

 

Do n/a also have 300hp?

 

N/A have about 220hp

 

wow i was just a little off there huh...damn my bust i guess ill leave the TT q's to the people who have one hahaha anyways
laters and have fun z'n

90 3zx2 n/a 2+2
shes a work in progress!

 

Where is the best place to get an intake, exhaust, ecu, and boost controller from, as far as money and quality goes. And is there much of a difference with the ecu, is it really worth it? anybody know why the automatics have 20 less hp?? So everybody agrees not to get the BOV's if you only running about 400hp....and what times in the 1/4 would i be expecting running at 12.5 psi, intake, exhaust, and ecu?? somebody must know the 1/4 mile times i can't find them anywhere.. thanks a lot everyone

 

Watch out on the body kit. I have Viel Side front and a lot of times i cant help but drag it on the ground. Try to get one w/ a lot of ground clearence.

 

Hey 4rdhater sorry if i sounded like a dick it wasn't meant that way at all.

Craig:
Intake: either get JWT Pop-charger (cheapest and best quality IMO), Stillen, or Injen (looks the best comes with aluminum chrome polished intake pies)

ECU: Only one to go with here the JWT ecu. Stillen sells an ecu also but they just buy them from JWT slap a Stillen sticker on'em and up the price. The ECU is well worth it, it allows you to up the boost safely to run 14.5 psi constanly. The stock ecu is only programmed to provide enough fuel to abbout 12psi about that you can cause serious engine damage. An ecu when added after intake and exhuast adds 60hp.

Exhuast: Depends on the sound you want, most have equal performance. Just make for sure it is stainless steel, mandrel bent, and at least 3" in diameter.

Automatics have lower hp because of a different cam and different ecu.

With those mods you should easily be into the low 13's high 12s with drag radials.

 

I always though that when you floor it the ecu shuts off and everything just dumps in all the gas it can, so it is impossible for ecu's to actually do anything other than save you gas mileage when driving at a regular speed?? and what about the xenon lights..do you need to replace the entire back peice are can they just be changed for like 30 bucks? thanks

 

90 - 96 TT manual - 300HP stock
90 - 96 TT automatic - 280HP stock because of fuel maps and camshafts. stl300Z is right.
1995 TT SMZ - 365HP stock, only 300 made.
The ECU never just shuts off, if it does, your screwed. Its like a processer on a motherboard, sort of. If anyone ever tells you an auto is more powerful than a manual, they are wrong. Stock, the only way an auto would beat a manual TT is if the driver of the manual couldn't shift right.

<font color=blue>.:Robert:.</font color=blue>