BASEBALL248

Does anyone have a "trick" to removing the flapped metal locking device on the bottom stud nuts at the Precat to Turbo connection. (Flippin' asinine design...)

I can get at the flap on bottom outer but the inner one is practically impossible, due to the down pipe twist. Anyone experienced? limited space for a cutting chisel, as well as possible damage to the nut if that were done.

Riz Z Speed

do you have a "universal joint" or flex joint socket extension? Usually that with a little "convincing" of the exhaust, should do the trick. Otherwise my advice to you would be to just drop the whole exhaust.

BASEBALL248

Hey Rizz,

The entire exhaust is removed, EXCEPT for the drivers precat\downpipe. There are 2 top bolts (easy) and 2 bottom nuts on studs that connect it to the Turbo charger unit.

The bottom studs have a metal safety plate that "locks" the nuts in place, by virtue of being bent at a 90 degree angle, which acts as a locking "flap". The innermost flap is inaccessable. The flap must be bent out of the way to obtain access to the nut with an open end wrench. A universal or flex extention will not work. Wrong application. Any ideas ?

Riz Z Speed

http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manua...fault&total=70

LOL!!! the manual just says "unbend the locking plates!"

I guess it's easier said than done, huh!?! LOL

If you can't get to them with a straight tool, why not try a bent one. There are such things as right angle screwdrivers, angled prybars, prybars that are screwdriver size and shape. you just need to bend the tabs enough outta the way to get a "grip" on the nut and allow it to turn, right? If you can do that, you should be ok. Then you could use a socket w/flex joint extension to remove. You just might have to take a trip to sears and peer into the glass cases until you find something that'll help you out.

Are you swapping out the turbos and/or downpipes?

BASEBALL248

Thx Rizz. You are correct...the manual says just that...kinda like when you are changing the clutch...it says "remove the transmission". What they forget to tell you is that the top left tranny\bell housing bolt requires a 36" extension, swivel, 1\2" to 3\8 drive step down and a 14mm short socket, with a flippin spot light shining from the master brake cyl towards the bolt to light it up enough so that when you drop the tranny in the back, you can see a flippin' sliver (like a crescent moon) of the bolt head...then...ya gotta go fishing with this 40" apparatus...whew! Should be a dream reinserting it. My 280ZXT was a walk in the park, compared to this tightly packed street rocket.

Ok..back to the problem. Since my last mail, I went to home depot and bought some 1\4" rectangular stock steel that is 24" long. I plan to bend in appropriate angle and then "fashion" grind it like the tip of a screw driver, catch the lip of the flap, then hit the **** out of it with a hammer to pop that sucker off. The angle is about a 60 degree left turn so I'll see if that works. I'll bet Nissan doesn't have THIS tool! The right side was slick. Real easy. A stubby open end is the only tool that I can fit in this area. Wish I had a pic...you would not believe the poor design for access.

I am upgrading the clutch\pressure plate to RPS TT street; gutting both precats and main cats, with ECU upgrade. Also replacing the O2 sensors. I wouldn't bother removing the drivers downpipe, except that gutting is cleaner and safer off the car and besides, the O2 sensor has made a permanent home on the precat. I lift weights daily and I can't move that little *****. Blaster does not help. Once I get the pipe in a vise...it's mine!

The Turbos are fine...still have full PSI and no leaks (oil, water or air). I put the car away in October and planned on 6 months of spare time work. Logged 145 hrs so far. Rebuilt brakes, SS lines, new parking brake shoes, new fog lights, refinishing the stock wheels, etc. I ahve plans to gut the stereo and speakers and rebuild with aftermarket and amps. (Not too many places to park the amps but I was thinking under the rear speakers, once the Bose amp box is removed. The trim box should cover it)

Happy New Year !

Riz Z Speed

Wow, now that's what I call dedicated to a project!!
Wish I had the money to do half the upgrades you're planning. Sounds good though. Good luck

BASEBALL248

The motivation is difficult, especially when it is cold (no heat in the garage). As for the money factor, plastic my man...plastic!!

BASEBALL248

Rizz...no go on removing the left downpipe. After many frustrating hrs, I talked to a Nissan technician I ran into at Sears. He said it was only designed to come off complete with the turbo, or while the eng is out. he said the factory manual was written by an idiot.

I ended up gytting the precat on the car and was able to remove the O2 sensor.

Any experience with removing the intercooler inlet pipes to the throttle body. Tere is no wiggle play because they are so stiff. If I force them, I'm afraid they may split at the connections.

Riz Z Speed

I hope your car still runs.
To remove those, you should warm up the car. With the engine warm, the rubber pieces will expand and be easier to remove.

BASEBALL248

Run??????..........no, it hasn't run since Oct. It is all apart. No tranny, starter, battery, battery cables, etc.

Looks like my daughters hair dryer to the rescue.

Thanks!