AMZ Short Shifter write up
#1
AMZ Short Shifter write up
Big thanks to Mitch @ AMZ for the superb group buy on this.
Step 1.
To take off the console you need to pop out the black strip carefull so you don't break it.
I use a flathead screwdriver to pry it out a little and use the flat head to move the clips so it pops out with ease. On the 2 corner pieces on top I just popped them off with a flat head screwdriver.
Step 2
To remove the console finisher use a phillips screwdriver to remove the 2 screws on top and the one located under the ashtray. Also remove your shift ****. Good luck with that one. It was a royal PITA for me. Then take the console off.
Step 3
Ahhh. Scary. Use a 12mm socket (I believe it's 12mm) and take off all 4 bolts in the corners. There is also a bolt hidden under the dust boot. Use the same socket to take that off too. This would be a perfect time to replace the shifter plate if it looks rotted. I had already replaced mine due to it breaking on me while I was driving. Now it starts to get fun.
Step 4
Take off both bolts holding the assembly up. The one on the back is the easiest. The one on the front is underneath which can be challenging. Especially when you have huge hands like me. There is also a bolt connecting the bottom of it to the transmission fork. (If that's what it's called.) That one was my biggest PITA for me. Took me probably about 30-45 minutes justy to get that bolt.
Step 5
Take a break. On the shifter assembly from AMZ install the bushings and collar.
Step 6
Take apart the shifter assembly and put it in the hole then under the plate. Push the bolt through the ball and bushings through the fork. Tighten bolt, but not to tight. Test it. Now Install the AMZ base on top of the half assembly. Bolt it in using supplied bolts for the front. On the rear I only needed the nut. Then screw on the rest of the assembly. And reverse the previous steps to reinstall the interior. Then go out and enjoy.
Step 1.
To take off the console you need to pop out the black strip carefull so you don't break it.
I use a flathead screwdriver to pry it out a little and use the flat head to move the clips so it pops out with ease. On the 2 corner pieces on top I just popped them off with a flat head screwdriver.
Step 2
To remove the console finisher use a phillips screwdriver to remove the 2 screws on top and the one located under the ashtray. Also remove your shift ****. Good luck with that one. It was a royal PITA for me. Then take the console off.
Step 3
Ahhh. Scary. Use a 12mm socket (I believe it's 12mm) and take off all 4 bolts in the corners. There is also a bolt hidden under the dust boot. Use the same socket to take that off too. This would be a perfect time to replace the shifter plate if it looks rotted. I had already replaced mine due to it breaking on me while I was driving. Now it starts to get fun.
Step 4
Take off both bolts holding the assembly up. The one on the back is the easiest. The one on the front is underneath which can be challenging. Especially when you have huge hands like me. There is also a bolt connecting the bottom of it to the transmission fork. (If that's what it's called.) That one was my biggest PITA for me. Took me probably about 30-45 minutes justy to get that bolt.
Step 5
Take a break. On the shifter assembly from AMZ install the bushings and collar.
Step 6
Take apart the shifter assembly and put it in the hole then under the plate. Push the bolt through the ball and bushings through the fork. Tighten bolt, but not to tight. Test it. Now Install the AMZ base on top of the half assembly. Bolt it in using supplied bolts for the front. On the rear I only needed the nut. Then screw on the rest of the assembly. And reverse the previous steps to reinstall the interior. Then go out and enjoy.
#3
How do you like it?
I saw this 4-Sale on Ebay. One of my Z's bushings are worn out and I was thinking about changing it over to the short shifter. What do you think of it? Do you a notice a big difference?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#4
Originally Posted by KevinH
I saw this 4-Sale on Ebay. One of my Z's bushings are worn out and I was thinking about changing it over to the short shifter. What do you think of it? Do you a notice a big difference?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#5
With all due respect to Canyon, my opinion is that if you do the job right, it's one of the best mods you can make to enhance the driving feel of the car.
I've had no problems with grinding, missed shifts, or noise that a lot of people report.
I've had no problems with grinding, missed shifts, or noise that a lot of people report.
#6
I loved it when I had a 5 spd. About a month after I put the SS on I got rear ended and totalled it. My new Z is an auto. My only problem with the SS is that my wife has arthritis and it made it hard on her to drive my car.
#7
Thanks!
Spyder Z 15 - I just wanted to thank-you for this write-up! I installed a B&M Nismo short shifter this past weekend in my '90 Z32 2+2. Your write-up was invalueable to me in my short shifter swap. I can definitely see what you were talking about regarding the tight and tough places to reach, access to hardware - what a pain! Not sure that I would do it again - but I have no choice (other than to pay someone), I need to replace the bushings in the shifter of my '93 Z32 coupe. At least I have good experience now!
BTW - did you retain the front bolt that is welded in the pivot fork where the swivel mount for the stick mounts to (pic attached)? I drilled the old one out, then had clearance issues with the replacement bolt head and the shifter mechanism. Just thought that I would ask. Thanks again!
BTW - did you retain the front bolt that is welded in the pivot fork where the swivel mount for the stick mounts to (pic attached)? I drilled the old one out, then had clearance issues with the replacement bolt head and the shifter mechanism. Just thought that I would ask. Thanks again!
#9
Originally Posted by KevinH
Spyder Z 15 - I just wanted to thank-you for this write-up! I installed a B&M Nismo short shifter this past weekend in my '90 Z32 2+2. Your write-up was invalueable to me in my short shifter swap. I can definitely see what you were talking about regarding the tight and tough places to reach, access to hardware - what a pain! Not sure that I would do it again - but I have no choice (other than to pay someone), I need to replace the bushings in the shifter of my '93 Z32 coupe. At least I have good experience now!
BTW - did you retain the front bolt that is welded in the pivot fork where the swivel mount for the stick mounts to (pic attached)? I drilled the old one out, then had clearance issues with the replacement bolt head and the shifter mechanism. Just thought that I would ask. Thanks again!
BTW - did you retain the front bolt that is welded in the pivot fork where the swivel mount for the stick mounts to (pic attached)? I drilled the old one out, then had clearance issues with the replacement bolt head and the shifter mechanism. Just thought that I would ask. Thanks again!
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