so yesterday my eng control fuse kept on burning out. Everytime i put a new one in it would burn out to but then once i put the last one in i tried to start my car and it wouldnt. Does anyone know what can be wrong? could it be electrical? what do you guys think?

 

uh.... yeah. If it's a fuse that's blowing, it is guaranteed to be an electrical problem... I can't even conceive an alternate problem that would cause an electrical fuse to blow. Fuses blow because of a spike in amperage (that's what they're designed to do in order to protect the electrical system)... most commonly caused by a short.

And repetitively replacing it wasn't the best idea, either. Any time a fuse blows, it is imperative that you figure out why and resolve the issue prior to replacing it.

 

do you know what i can doto fix it like looking by which wires or anyplace under the hood?

 

get a mutli meter and start testing different parts of the harness for where you have a short.

 

well finally got her to start but now shes running roug as well as rich. I did a diagnostic and a code 34 poped up have any of you had this problem?

 

yeah i had it. knock sensor. i bypassed it. cost me a quarter. 1k ohm resistor in the ECU side of the harness. you run a bit of risk with it (car won't detect detonation as well), but i keep premium fuel in it and i've never heard any detonation. i've put almost 10k on the motor since then too.

 

well thanks to another member i had bought a upgraded ecu and my car isnt running rich or rough anymore but now when i took it outside i noticed a bit of smoke so i poped the hood and saw that there was a bit of smoke comming up from the driver side under the hood anyone know what it can be?

 

what color? how stinky? how much?

 

it wasnt much or that dark it was noticeable if you looked directley at the spot where it was coming out of. maybe it was burning the fuel that it couldnt burn when it had the codes. what do you guys think

 

Burning fuel should *not* be coming from anywhere in the engine bay... the fuel should have no way of escaping. What spot were you looking directly at when you saw it?

 

plus if it's not that dark it's probably water or rubber. or is rubber smoke black? either way, it's probably water.

 

valve cover gaskets...

 

if i remeber correctlly it was by the abs on the drivers side but it only did it for that day i havent seen any anymore what do you guys think? o and for some reason i dont feel the same amount of power as i use to since i had a cose 34 could i be running saftey boost. if i am can i fix it by checking the timing on the car? or maybe an injector?

 

Code 34 = safety boost.

Most common cause is a bad harness... bypass the sensor. Search.

 

also, do NOT adjust the timing to get around that.

 

Adjusting the timing wouldn't even really solve his problem... he's only getting 6psi of boost and that's the root of most of his power loss.

 

ok im going to try to checlk that out thanks guys ill keep everyone updated

 

so its def. the saftey boost thats stopping me from feeling the same power i used to. im going to change out my plugs and hopefully my injectors anyways. ive been reading alot of threads and some people are saying when they get a electronic boost controller or manual one, that the controller overrides the saftey boost and gets rid of the problem due to taking out the stock solenoids. is this true?/

 

i would find out why your engine control fuse is burning out first.

if you dont fix that and over ride the safety boost your asking for it.
when you fix you engine control fuse problem you will probally not be in safety boost anymore...


have you run the codes?

 

yea i have it was the code 34 and 51 i believe but i installed a new ecu and my fuse quit burning out ive been driving around for a week now and it hasnt burnt out anymore but im still in safte boost. so what do you think?

 

do you still get the code 34? the 34 means knock sensor and it will cause safety boost. didn't we already go over this in this thread? changing the ECU won't necessarily make that code go away. so check the codes, and replace the knock sensor if needed.

 

hahaha

 

what? i don't get it.

 

ill run the codes again but if it is do yall have a thread about how o find it and change it?

 

not that i know of. you take the plenum off, take the rad. out, take the timing belt off, take the lower plenum off, then it's right there. that was obviously elapsed a bit.