Driveshaft........
#3
If you're doing it, I'd recommend a 1-piece driveshaft. You can replace the u-joints in the 1-piece. They're lighter and more efficient. I've heard it'll take .2 off of your 1/4 mile time. z1 motorsports sells a real nice 1-piece steel shaft for about $275. You probably pay about that for a new factory one, if not more.
#4
I was going to go with the one piece. But my friends dad works at a service shop and he took one off a 96 z with 18k on it. And he said hell give it to me for $50. But I am still interested in a one piece, I dont know if i want to drop another $275. Im getting the sebring exhaust, aluminum pulleys, bought an intake, and im gettin my 60k service done this week. So well see where the fund are at. Im a struggling musicina/college student, who would rather drop tons in to the z, but i got to do what i gots ta do foo. Thanks
#5
hey man let me know how is your sebring exhaust....and also where did you get it from? thanx a lot and good luck. if you have enough money left you should get the one piece, but that 96 2 piece will hold for a long time too, so you can get a one piece later when you get some cash. maybe when you are upgrading your clutch it will be a good time to do it. good luck...keep us updated
#8
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Take the heat shields off the cats. Unbolt the two pipes at the joints rearward of the cats. Follow the pipes back to the second joints and unbolt. Remove aluminum heat shield from above the cats, you might have to bend it a little to be able to pull it straight back and out.
With the three shields and the middle pipes off, you can now unbolt the bearing support, two large bolts. Note where the spacers fit on the bolts for re-assembly. Unbolt the D/S from the diff, pull it out and you're done. When I put it all back together I put new nuts and bolts in the flanges as well as new metal flange gaskets.
Good luck and Cheers
PS: Why are you changing it? If its a bad u-joint, any good driveline specialty shop can change the OE joints as well as the bearing.
With the three shields and the middle pipes off, you can now unbolt the bearing support, two large bolts. Note where the spacers fit on the bolts for re-assembly. Unbolt the D/S from the diff, pull it out and you're done. When I put it all back together I put new nuts and bolts in the flanges as well as new metal flange gaskets.
Good luck and Cheers
PS: Why are you changing it? If its a bad u-joint, any good driveline specialty shop can change the OE joints as well as the bearing.
Last edited by Brewster; 01-29-2004 at 09:07 PM.
#15
Originally posted by 91zxtt
Watch out, NISMO will hop on here and start talking about his movie again. He's contaminated more threads that way.
Watch out, NISMO will hop on here and start talking about his movie again. He's contaminated more threads that way.
#19
We had an saying in college, and it was, "You can't stop us, you can only hope to contain us." This came out primarily when we were heavily inebriated, but I think the idea fits here. We'll try to stay on target, but I can't make any promises.
#20
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Posts: n/a
Originally posted by 91zxtt
Not quite.....In most cases, you can't replace the OE u-joint. It isn't designed to be replaced. If you can get it done it is almost as expensive, if not more expensive than buying a 1 piece driveshaft.
Not quite.....In most cases, you can't replace the OE u-joint. It isn't designed to be replaced. If you can get it done it is almost as expensive, if not more expensive than buying a 1 piece driveshaft.
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