the engine dies
07-27-2004, 09:39 AM
#1
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Location: Lafayette, IN
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the engine dies
Alright, i was driving home last night, and all of the sudden the rpm's start fluctuating, it seemed like the clutch was slipping, but then the rpms went to 0 and i was left rolling down the road. 
it took me a couple trys to fire it back up, and then once i got driving again, whenever we went over a bump the rpms fluctuated. when i was halfway to my house i had my friend drive it(im not supposed to be driving) and the car died on him too, but we didnt have any problems starting it up this time. I also noticed that the rpms fluctuate every time i gun the car. what is causing this?
oh and i dont know if this is even a problem or connected to my problem, but the shifter was really hot last night when my dad drove the car home. i havent actually "driven" the car for almost 2 months so i cant remember if it ever got hot. thanx guys
it took me a couple trys to fire it back up, and then once i got driving again, whenever we went over a bump the rpms fluctuated. when i was halfway to my house i had my friend drive it(im not supposed to be driving) and the car died on him too, but we didnt have any problems starting it up this time. I also noticed that the rpms fluctuate every time i gun the car. what is causing this?oh and i dont know if this is even a problem or connected to my problem, but the shifter was really hot last night when my dad drove the car home. i havent actually "driven" the car for almost 2 months so i cant remember if it ever got hot. thanx guys
07-27-2004, 11:05 AM
#2
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Does the car's speed fluctuate when the RPM's fluctuate, or is it just the tachometer needle fluctuating? If the clutch was slipping, it wouldn't cause the engine to die. Check the battery terminals and the main ground bolted to the firewall behind the battery. If it corroded, then clean it with a wire brush and some baking soda mixed in water. The problem you describe when going over a bump causes me to think you have a bad electrical connection somewhere.
07-27-2004, 12:41 PM
#4
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I dont know why... But the title of this thread made me think of Joe Dirt (And SOTL too)... THE ENGINE DIES! IT PUTS THE LOTION ON ITS SKIN!
Ok sorry... It does sound like a bad electrical connection though. Check yours speed control on the upper firewall. Also do what 91zxtt suggested... Check the ground.
If all else fails... Check your fuel filter perhaps? EGR maybe... Man it could be anything.
-Wes
Ok sorry... It does sound like a bad electrical connection though. Check yours speed control on the upper firewall. Also do what 91zxtt suggested... Check the ground.
If all else fails... Check your fuel filter perhaps? EGR maybe... Man it could be anything.
-Wes
07-27-2004, 12:45 PM
#5
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When the rpms fluctuate, the car either like jumps a bit or it just rolls.
And im going to go check the grounding wires right now, cuz i was messing with the battery when i hooked up a power wire for my amps.
I'm also gonna look at the fuel filter tonight sometime, cuz i had the fuel tanks open trying to figure out why i wasnt getting the right resistance to the gauges.
And im going to go check the grounding wires right now, cuz i was messing with the battery when i hooked up a power wire for my amps.
I'm also gonna look at the fuel filter tonight sometime, cuz i had the fuel tanks open trying to figure out why i wasnt getting the right resistance to the gauges.
07-27-2004, 01:46 PM
#7
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ok I checked the grounding point on the firewall and its getting a little frayed, but it was on there fine, along with the connection at the terminals.
you said this on an old thread 91zxtt and i tried it and there is something pulling on the battery, so now i gotta find that too.
If you disconnect the negative terminal, then reconnect it, is there a tiny spark when you touch the cable to the terminal again? If so, then you have something pulling on the battery.
07-28-2004, 10:54 AM
#9
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Well, with the key off, and the doors shut, there shoudn't be; unless you have an aftermarket stereo that is lit up all the time, or if your alarm automatically arms. This problem souldn't cause the problem that you're discussing. I still think it's something electrical. Check that all of your coil packs are snug. Also try checking that the hose clamps on the hoses to the MAF are tight. Fuel filter is a possibility, but it would cause the car to stutter every time you go over a bump. I'm gonna' go with what NISMO said, "it could be anything." Electrical problems are extremely frustrating.
07-28-2004, 06:59 PM
#10
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Yea, I have an aftermarket stereo, clock, and security system that will always be pulling the battery.
My dad said the problem might be somewhere in the ignition.
He drove it today, and for the most part it only happened over 4000 rpms, but it didnt die this time. we didnt go over any bumps big enough this time either to make it fluctuate.
All I know is it better be fixed by next week, cuz ill be able to drive again.
My dad said the problem might be somewhere in the ignition.
He drove it today, and for the most part it only happened over 4000 rpms, but it didnt die this time. we didnt go over any bumps big enough this time either to make it fluctuate.
All I know is it better be fixed by next week, cuz ill be able to drive again.
07-29-2004, 04:35 PM
#15
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Bingo! You can test it with an ohm meter, but I don't know what the correct readings are supposed to be. Check out Rizz's link and there should be a section there that would tell you, or if you're lucky, someone reading this will just happen to know.
07-29-2004, 09:33 PM
#16
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reading this makes me wonder what it is, right now i have a really gay problem with my Z, anything over the 4grand rpm range and it feels my ignition is breaking down, my car also randomly will just decide to "shut off" I have coil packs on the way to my house i REALLY hope thats the problem, i will be replacing coil packs and spark plugs, if it doesn't work then I think im screwed on finding out what it is.... do you guys think I should replace my fuel filter? untill reading this i never though about that... it could be starved of fuel
07-29-2004, 09:54 PM
#17
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like 91zxtt said some of the problems i am having shouldnt come from the fuel filter, but it definately wouldnt hurt to replace it anyway
but anyway whenever you get those coil packs and spark plugs in let me know if that fixed the problem
i checked the voltage of the MAF tonight.
i believe the voltages should be around: .8 with key to on and 1.5 with car idling
my voltage was at .5 with the key on, but was fine when idling
but anyway whenever you get those coil packs and spark plugs in let me know if that fixed the problem
i checked the voltage of the MAF tonight.
i believe the voltages should be around: .8 with key to on and 1.5 with car idling
my voltage was at .5 with the key on, but was fine when idling
07-30-2004, 10:11 AM
#18
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b-just for fun, check the resistence on each of your coil packs. If they're not all the same, then you could have a problem there. I doubt it though. I say it's a MAF.
Metal-try your fuel filter since they're cheap. I don't believe that'll be your problem. I don't think your coil packs are the culprit either, but if it's not, you could just turn around and sell them on ebay again. You could have a MAF issue also. I had a MAF fail in my old Z31. The car would run ok, but it'd fall on it's face above 3500 RPM's. It would idle ok, but was sometimes hard to start when it was cold. The reading off of the OHM meter were within range with and without the car running. The mechanic I used just happened to have another Z31 come in at the same time. He swapped out the MAF and that solved the problem. Do you have a friend with a Z32? If so, try to swap it out.
Metal-try your fuel filter since they're cheap. I don't believe that'll be your problem. I don't think your coil packs are the culprit either, but if it's not, you could just turn around and sell them on ebay again. You could have a MAF issue also. I had a MAF fail in my old Z31. The car would run ok, but it'd fall on it's face above 3500 RPM's. It would idle ok, but was sometimes hard to start when it was cold. The reading off of the OHM meter were within range with and without the car running. The mechanic I used just happened to have another Z31 come in at the same time. He swapped out the MAF and that solved the problem. Do you have a friend with a Z32? If so, try to swap it out.
07-31-2004, 11:03 AM
#19
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Last night I fired it up and it was defiantely misfiring, and had a rough idle.
so I pull out spark plug numero uno and its dead. and when i pulled out the rest of the spark plugs to check them they were going bad, pretty sooty. they were bosch platinum 4+
ive got some new ngks coming in tommorrow morning
I also checked the coil packs and they are the same
so I pull out spark plug numero uno and its dead. and when i pulled out the rest of the spark plugs to check them they were going bad, pretty sooty. they were bosch platinum 4+
ive got some new ngks coming in tommorrow morning
I also checked the coil packs and they are the same
08-01-2004, 10:41 AM
#20
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i got the new sparkplugs in and the first spark plug is still not firing. ive checked the coils, and the connections are fine. i also tried swithcing the coils, and number 1 still doesnt fire. is there anything else to check?
08-01-2004, 07:33 PM
#22
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O God... I hope its not your Fuel Injectors.
Tearing the Upper Plenum appart, disembling the entire upper half, getting the fuel system out, and making sure you re-assemble everything correctly... Torquing properly, getting all the hoses back together right...
God man, I hope its not.
Before you get to that, check the OHMage on the Injectors first, they should be 12-14OMH's for proper function.
I doubt its the MAF guys... Seriously.
When the MAF is broken, the car wont idle over 2,000RPM... Your speaking of up at 4Grand. Im not sure.
It sounds like an EFI Electrical problem to me.
-ZedEx
Tearing the Upper Plenum appart, disembling the entire upper half, getting the fuel system out, and making sure you re-assemble everything correctly... Torquing properly, getting all the hoses back together right...
God man, I hope its not.
Before you get to that, check the OHMage on the Injectors first, they should be 12-14OMH's for proper function.
I doubt its the MAF guys... Seriously.
When the MAF is broken, the car wont idle over 2,000RPM... Your speaking of up at 4Grand. Im not sure.
It sounds like an EFI Electrical problem to me.
-ZedEx
08-01-2004, 10:00 PM
#23
caught the z fever
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well i fixed it...how exactly i really dont know
i know the new spark plugs helped out tho
my dad and i just sprayed all of the connections from the injectors and the coil packs with silicone, let them dry, jiggled them a bit and hooked them back up. the car idled smother than i have ever seen it idle, but it still idles high most of the time...1000-1500 rpms
i guess the connections were just getting clogged.
another bad problem tho...i think theres a small oil leak from the 5th cylinder
i know the new spark plugs helped out tho
my dad and i just sprayed all of the connections from the injectors and the coil packs with silicone, let them dry, jiggled them a bit and hooked them back up. the car idled smother than i have ever seen it idle, but it still idles high most of the time...1000-1500 rpms
i guess the connections were just getting clogged.
another bad problem tho...i think theres a small oil leak from the 5th cylinder
08-10-2004, 09:18 PM
#25
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hey i know this thread is old but i have had another issue come up and have been replacing my valve cover gaskets... My car still has the igition breakdown problem, i have all new coilpacks, all new sparkplugs, and everything is hooked up right... I have no idea what it could be, when I put the plenum back on tomorrow or the next day ( WHAT A PAIN!!!) sorry had to say that, anyway when i put it back on and get my car put all back together i'll try to pull codes from the ecu, any suggestions still would be greatly appreciated, MAF? Whats proper ohms for it?
