$600.............................................. .................................................. ...

 

600 difference? when it comes to original price of the two thats almost chump change. lol.

 

The price diff is around $500 but i also know another site that i can get the gt-28r for $800 a piece but its the turbo only no gaskets or oil lines. How much do you think i would spend on gaskets and oil lines if i bought them from that site.

 

idk.... try askin the store give them a call lol. thats not a question we can really answer unless one of the few TT owners on here bought that specific setup for that specific turbo. you know? give them a call and ask.

 

Ok i think i might just go with the greddy td04 kit. With that and bigger injectors it gives 500hp and that plenty enough. The cars mainly for looks i just figured it up the hp. I found the kit for $2,800 and that seems great to me. It beats all ebays and other sites iv founds price. If anyone has any suggestions lemme know.

 

so, how is that better than the gt600r?

 

GT2860R or RS turbos would be cheaper, spool better, and provide the same or more power.

 

Ok then i will go with the 600 kit then or the 525.Im just tryin to get the cheapest way out and 500 to 600 hp is all im looking for, and im tryin to keep it bellow 4,000 buck whick is extremelly hard.

 

Cheap. Fast. Reliable. Pick 2.

 

2 as in the 525 kit or the 600.

 

as in out of the list of


cheap

fast

reliable




btw i dont think you can have cheap and reliable though. even though its 2 from the list. when was the last time you got cheap but reliable parts? especially for a Z32

 

it's all relative dummy. you can have cheap (comparatively) and reliable if you keep things stock.

 

Non-turbo Z32's are cheap and reliable. And, as Entropy said, stock is [relatively] cheap and reliable too.

 

how can you relate cheap because one is being modified and the other isnt, thats almost like comparing 2 different cars then. thats why i thought id bring it up. i tihnk cheap would be cheap parts in many minds. i get it, i just dont like it. if you do modify your car and you just stop at one point compared to others but you use the same parts, you really didnt save any money, you just stopped spending earlier. there for, its not any cheaper, you never saved anything. thats like saying, my kids are cheaper because you have 5 and i have 2. they arent any cheaper either way if you buy them the same stuff, ou just have less to deal with.



like im saying, i definatly get and understand the intent of the statement, i just think its a little, unfair i guess, and i think most people wouldnt take it that way, and instead see it as, get cheap parts and it wont be as fast but more reliable because you arent pushing these cheap parts as hard, but, yeah, not really the case.




edit: ehh, i lost interest, i dont feel like arguing tonight. you win. i give. lol. i just dont have it in me to think right now. i guess its true in taking in every case scenario as if you can take any situation of using, good/or cheap parts, staying stock/or modifying. i just think thats a little unfair to compare all those together.

 

The statement is made generally, not specifically. We're talking overall ownership costs on the grand scheme of Z32 ownership (hell, CAR ownership).

Staying stock is cheaper than modifying, there's no denying that. Since the car is made for it's factory power output, it will be more reliable at that level. Thus cheap and reliable is attainable when you stay stock.

Modifying the car will certainly make the car fast(er), but the parts you choose to do it with determine cheap vs. reliable. Cheap is used relatively... I'll discuss that at the end.

Being cheap lands you both parts that are below quallity (i.e. cheap injectors) and incomplete modifications (i.e. aftermarket turbos without proper oil lines or intercoolers or exhaust work). This will undeniably make the car less reliable, so you are left with fast and cheap.

If you were to mod correctly, you would choose quallity aftermarket parts (HKS, JWT, Apex-i, etc) and complete modifications (ALL relevant supporting mods and repairs such as new bearings on old worn engines). This will not be cheap by any means, but you can be damn sure that it will be reliable because any parts effected by the mods have been checked and replaced if necessary, thus fast and reliable are possible.

There are your three scenarios, and I have experience with each.

Yes, modifying with cheap parts is more expensive than staying stock, but if I recall correctly, this guy wants 500rwhp for under $4k... tell me that isn't cheap. Reliable stock Z might run about $5k-$10k. 500rwhp for under $4k more is STILL cheap (albeit not as cheap as a stock Z... but both are still cheap). To put it into perspective, I spent $11k and ended up with INCOMPLETE mods and 431rwhp because I didn't fix things that I should've checked (i.e. the stock intercoolers with a hole in one of them). That engine lasted about 6 months.

I modded the old red Z32 cheaply, and ended up with a blown engine after blowing both turbos. It was fast, but it was COMPLETELY unreliable (and really not as fast as it should've been). The black Z stayed mostly stock for over a year and did not break down at all. When I modded it, I did EVERYTHING (I'm sure you know, I refreshed the engine when I bolted the GT2530's on, and did all new oil and coolant lines, etc) and I did it right. Since then, it has been just as reliable as it was when it was stock.

 

OK heres the point im not saying they are cheap turbos, they are great just smaller. Both kits come from z1 its just the 525 kit is cheaper and with the 600 kit it can produce up to 650hp which im not going to push that limit.On stock turbos which mine are blown just the ecu exhaust and high flown intake boosts to 410hp. Im not an expert with these cars but thats why i want advice but if you spent 11k to get 430hp you got ripped. I dont called and talked about the greddy tdo4 kit. He told me on 93 octane gas with an upgraded exhaust +ecu i would produce 500hp on stock downpipes. That kit is all out bolt on. But i would rather get the 525 or 600 with different intercooler and downpipes and be done with it. I just wana know should i go with ,

1.Greddy tdo4 for $2,800
2.gt525 for $1900
3.Gt600r for $2,400

All i wana push around is 500 mayb a lil less then im done and happy. For easiest and more reliable which kit should i chose and the tdo4 caomes with an intercooler if im not mistaken.

 

id stick with the GT series turbo. and we already gave GREAT advice on turbo choice and the turbo kit used on the fastest type of Z's. and a person even posts personal experience with a kit. quite frankliy, if you plan on just an ecu and turbo kit and expect 500 hp your crazy. thats a huge reason why the motor didnt last in his car, poor intercoolers and i believe undersized injectors were his problem. remember its YOU that are making this decision and spending YOUR money, not us, we give advice, we dont tell you what to do. i would recomend from what ive read to not go with the TDO4 kit though.

also he does all his own work, research, and investment, so he didnt get "ripped off" since he made his own decisions.


he has also stated he is making 500+ rwhp on his gt2530 kit and also mentioned that what many are using i believe greg dupree was one of them? if so i know he makes in the 600-700 whp range. at least last time i read about him in a magazine, which was 2 years ago i believe.

 

all the TD04 kits i have seen(actually only 2) are just turbos, or come with some very shitty downpipe.

honestly with your price limit, and out of those 3 turbos, I would get the 525s. spend the rest of the money on supporting mods, and you will have very fast spooling turbos good for 450 wheel. dont forget about drivetrain.

 

i think the ones he is talking about are comparable to the 525s. may be a tad bit bigger

 

... and I was working at Ultimate Z at the time so all parts were greatly discounted.

But I cut corners (for example, I did the high-end turbos, but didn't do intercoolers or test pipes, I got an intake, but it wasn't JWT), and thus the car was not as powerful as it could've been (the main reason for the power defficiency was using stock intercoolers which were later determined to have a 4mm hole in them... the type of thing that being thorough would've caught and remedied VERY early, but I was too cheap to look into it).

And LOL at the 18/19 year who's old gonna tell me whether or not I got a good deal. Go build a 500+rwhp Z32 that is reliable as a daily driver and then come back at me once you've got some experience.

The bottom line is simple, YOU CANNOT JUST BOLT LARGER TURBOS ON THIS CAR AND THINK IT'S GOING TO MAKE MORE POWER AND BE RELIABLE. That'd be far from a complete mod and I promise you that you'd destroy your engine. Get the cheaper turbos and then get the supporting mods and go through EVERYTHING to find out what needs to be replaced. I'll bet your knock sensor/harness is dead in addition to a dozen other things and you don't even know it... all will factor into the cost of building a reliable Z32.

 

I'm speaking in comparison to the [thrust-bearing] TD04 turbos.

 

SO tdo4 is marked of that just leaves me with 525 or 600. I already have stillen high flow intake, exedy clutch, and fidanza flywheel. I plan on getting the 525's with hks hi power exhaust, new wiring harness, aftermarket bov's cause i think thats why my turbos got blown cauwse i found the wastegate wire was cut into leaving it wide open constantly, 555cc injectors, and whats kinda intercooler should i chose front mount or upgraded side mounts.With all this z1 told me i should produce slightly over 500hp and 500tq.

 

FMIC is crap on the z32.

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/300zx-z32-tech-tips-273/intercooler-writeup-long-19694/

read that.

 

wastegate has nothing to do with BOVs. you do not need them unless your stock recirculation valves are shot, which probably hasnt happened. go with z1 or stillen intercoolers and new downpipes.

 

i wish. i'm sure it's just bad luck and a stupid PO, but i bought my car for 4k and have put almost that into it again just to get it to go 4000 miles! that's all i've put on it! i paid $8000 to go 4000 miles. shat on that. i wish i was in the cheap to maintain N/A club
i'm not disagreeing with you, i just saw that and had to bring out my little story.