help with a few things
#1
help with a few things
i've been working on the car for the weekend and ran into a few issues that i'm looking for second opinions on. there may be some issues i could search for but i'm really just looking for you all to help me out summing up my options.
1. i got one of my VTC solenoids out trying to fix some oil leaks and found that the back of it is covered in very soft black tarry stuff. it would kinda stick on your finger. it seemed like it was maybe melting out of the back of the solenoid. i would ideally have taken out the other to compare it but i had to come back to school so i can't now. so i guess i need to know what the back of the solenoid should look like and how can i test it's function.
2. i was able to drive a verifiably perfectly running n/a today to compare mine to, and i found that my low end it lacking pretty bad. i get a very steep increase at the high end, around 5k, that feels very dramatic and obvious, whereas this car seemed to pull strong from the start and be just as strong in the top as well. aside from small possibilities concerning the fuel system like the FPR and dampener that would have relatively subtle effects, what are some larger issues that might cause this lack in low end power? i guess my strange looking VTC solenoid could be indicating a lack of VTC function causing this?
3. i replaced all my injectors a couple years back with brand new old style injectors. i ohmed them all today while on the bench and found that 5 read 12 exactly, and one was very strange. it never read the same thing twice. i cleaned the contacts very well before proceeding past the first try or two. when i first touch the contacts, it would show a reasonable number, i.e. 12, 14, 10, 20, or even 30. all believable readings for an injector that may or may not be bad. these readings would show for a second or so, and then the multimeter would jump up to a ridiculous reading in the in the range of 200 to 500 k ohms. i understand that a bad injector can provide any reading, but i'm just wondering if there's any explanation for the meter briefly reading a reasonable number and then jumping up suddenly. the meter worked fine for all other injectors with no strange behavior, and i double checked with another meter as well, that provided similar results. any guesses?
4. i got started on my EGR delete. i'm wondering what do do with the vacuum line to the valve and the solenoids on either side of the engine?
i might add a bit more later. i'm falling asleep now. thanks in advance.
1. i got one of my VTC solenoids out trying to fix some oil leaks and found that the back of it is covered in very soft black tarry stuff. it would kinda stick on your finger. it seemed like it was maybe melting out of the back of the solenoid. i would ideally have taken out the other to compare it but i had to come back to school so i can't now. so i guess i need to know what the back of the solenoid should look like and how can i test it's function.
2. i was able to drive a verifiably perfectly running n/a today to compare mine to, and i found that my low end it lacking pretty bad. i get a very steep increase at the high end, around 5k, that feels very dramatic and obvious, whereas this car seemed to pull strong from the start and be just as strong in the top as well. aside from small possibilities concerning the fuel system like the FPR and dampener that would have relatively subtle effects, what are some larger issues that might cause this lack in low end power? i guess my strange looking VTC solenoid could be indicating a lack of VTC function causing this?
3. i replaced all my injectors a couple years back with brand new old style injectors. i ohmed them all today while on the bench and found that 5 read 12 exactly, and one was very strange. it never read the same thing twice. i cleaned the contacts very well before proceeding past the first try or two. when i first touch the contacts, it would show a reasonable number, i.e. 12, 14, 10, 20, or even 30. all believable readings for an injector that may or may not be bad. these readings would show for a second or so, and then the multimeter would jump up to a ridiculous reading in the in the range of 200 to 500 k ohms. i understand that a bad injector can provide any reading, but i'm just wondering if there's any explanation for the meter briefly reading a reasonable number and then jumping up suddenly. the meter worked fine for all other injectors with no strange behavior, and i double checked with another meter as well, that provided similar results. any guesses?
4. i got started on my EGR delete. i'm wondering what do do with the vacuum line to the valve and the solenoids on either side of the engine?
i might add a bit more later. i'm falling asleep now. thanks in advance.
Last edited by KasbeKZ; 03-28-2010 at 05:06 PM.
#2
1. No idea how to test the VTC solenoid, but I've never heard of one going bad.
2. FPD and damper won't cause a "subtle" difference... they'll be noticeable. If they're malfunctioning, your engine is not getting the proper amount of fuel... I hope I don't need to go into a mechanics lesson here. PCV valves can be replaced, air filter cleaned, throttle bodies cleaned, MAF and TPS cleaned, etc. Also check for vacuum leaks.
3. First off, 20 and 30 ohms are not acceptable - that injector is simply bad. Who cares why? Are you hoping the "why" comes with "oh, the injector is fine"? It doesn't... the injector is bad. lol
4. Eliminate the vacuum line entirely. Cap it off or block it however you choose to do so.
2. FPD and damper won't cause a "subtle" difference... they'll be noticeable. If they're malfunctioning, your engine is not getting the proper amount of fuel... I hope I don't need to go into a mechanics lesson here. PCV valves can be replaced, air filter cleaned, throttle bodies cleaned, MAF and TPS cleaned, etc. Also check for vacuum leaks.
3. First off, 20 and 30 ohms are not acceptable - that injector is simply bad. Who cares why? Are you hoping the "why" comes with "oh, the injector is fine"? It doesn't... the injector is bad. lol
4. Eliminate the vacuum line entirely. Cap it off or block it however you choose to do so.
#3
good stuff. thanks for the response.
2. that's cool i guess. i just did all of those things except for the fpr and fpd this weekend, so once it's driving again, those two will be top priorities.
3. yeah i know those readings aren't acceptable, but i was just pointing out the strange occurrence of a low/close number followed by a high crazy one. and yeah, that's pretty much what i was hoping lol. this thing is going to cost me.... around $700+ because i'm not putting anymore old style's in there.
4. and thanks again.
2. that's cool i guess. i just did all of those things except for the fpr and fpd this weekend, so once it's driving again, those two will be top priorities.
3. yeah i know those readings aren't acceptable, but i was just pointing out the strange occurrence of a low/close number followed by a high crazy one. and yeah, that's pretty much what i was hoping lol. this thing is going to cost me.... around $700+ because i'm not putting anymore old style's in there.
4. and thanks again.
#4
When multimeters take readings, they can fluctuate a little before settling on the actual reading (just based on how they work). That's why it's jumping around a bit. But the actual reading is the value on which the meter settles. And good choice on retrofitting new style injectors.
#5
yeah i figured that much. i thought it was worth asking though because every time it settled, it settled at a different reading. like i said, 200 one time, 120 the next, and 550 the next. srape them around a bit and then it's different again! it's probably leaky inside and stuff and changing it's resistance as it moves.
btw, i just realized bernie's conversion kit is ALL inclusive for $525 shipped. i thought it would end up being more. then after i sell my 5 good injectors i might only be in for $325 or so.
btw, i just realized bernie's conversion kit is ALL inclusive for $525 shipped. i thought it would end up being more. then after i sell my 5 good injectors i might only be in for $325 or so.
#8
so i've decided on solutions to most of these problems now. i'll get the conversion from bernie and i'll hook up with someone that has some kind of diagnostic equipment to see if the VTC and everything else is working correctly. that'll probably be bernie too.
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