IACV Question
#1
IACV Question
I bought my daughter a 1990na and the idle is running 1000 rpm. I tried the throttle adjustment screw and it is all the way in. Out of course increases the idle. I squeezed the hose running from the balance tube to the IACV valve and the idle went down. So I have two questions.
Number one. To try and free the stuck valve do I just spray WD40 into the valve while the engine is running or off.
Number two. If the WD40 trick doesnt work, For a temporary fix till the new part comes in, can I reduce the ID of the hose to lower the idle. I would place a smaller hose inside of the factory hose to achieve the air flow reduction.
Thanks, Mike B
Number one. To try and free the stuck valve do I just spray WD40 into the valve while the engine is running or off.
Number two. If the WD40 trick doesnt work, For a temporary fix till the new part comes in, can I reduce the ID of the hose to lower the idle. I would place a smaller hose inside of the factory hose to achieve the air flow reduction.
Thanks, Mike B
#4
yeah. let it sit at 1k.
these cars should almost never need the idle screw adjusted. once you get the new iacv on, you should go through the write up for properly setting the idle and never touch that screw again. the car compensates for idle by itself, so adjusting that screw just puts your automatic components closer to their maximum adjustment. a rough way of explaining it, but you get the point.
btw, something i lately have been wishing someone told me before i got a 1990: the '90 has 26mm rotors up front (off topic i know. it's good to know though) and they warped a lot more easily than all the later rotors. so if these rotors warp, don't get new '90 rotors, just get calipers from a later car and get the new rotors for a later year. brakes will be a lot better then. don't even bother turning these. they can't afford to be any thinner.
these cars should almost never need the idle screw adjusted. once you get the new iacv on, you should go through the write up for properly setting the idle and never touch that screw again. the car compensates for idle by itself, so adjusting that screw just puts your automatic components closer to their maximum adjustment. a rough way of explaining it, but you get the point.
btw, something i lately have been wishing someone told me before i got a 1990: the '90 has 26mm rotors up front (off topic i know. it's good to know though) and they warped a lot more easily than all the later rotors. so if these rotors warp, don't get new '90 rotors, just get calipers from a later car and get the new rotors for a later year. brakes will be a lot better then. don't even bother turning these. they can't afford to be any thinner.
Last edited by KasbeKZ; 04-24-2009 at 01:11 PM.
#5
Any ecu codes, like for the coolant temp sensor?
I have a process by which I regularly clean my t/b's and IACV with carb cleaner and then spray in some WD-40 afterwards. No disassembly required. I'm pretty sure I posted a write-up here a coupla years ago. You might do a search.
I have a process by which I regularly clean my t/b's and IACV with carb cleaner and then spray in some WD-40 afterwards. No disassembly required. I'm pretty sure I posted a write-up here a coupla years ago. You might do a search.
#6
Any ecu codes, like for the coolant temp sensor?
I have a process by which I regularly clean my t/b's and IACV with carb cleaner and then spray in some WD-40 afterwards. No disassembly required. I'm pretty sure I posted a write-up here a coupla years ago. You might do a search.
I have a process by which I regularly clean my t/b's and IACV with carb cleaner and then spray in some WD-40 afterwards. No disassembly required. I'm pretty sure I posted a write-up here a coupla years ago. You might do a search.
#7
those two are in line. they both do the same thing (allow more air in to raise the idle) pretty much. either one can be your problem, and either one can be cleaned just as easily. i would take all the hoses involved off and blast into both of them with wd-40 and see if that helps. i bet it will. it helped mine.
#8
those two are in line. they both do the same thing (allow more air in to raise the idle) pretty much. either one can be your problem, and either one can be cleaned just as easily. i would take all the hoses involved off and blast into both of them with wd-40 and see if that helps. i bet it will. it helped mine.
#9
i wouldn't block it off. really, just let it idle at 1k. no big deal. i idle at 1200 and still make 23 mpg, which is more than car and driver rated the car at. if you block it off, it won't run when you cold start it.
#10
Gonna clean the TB and those shoot those valves in question. If cleaning doesnt work then I'll restrict it (not a total blocking). When I squeezed the line I didnt have to close it shut to get the idle to drop. Just a temp fix. Its an automatic and she is a fairly new driver and it tends to lurch when putting into drive.
#12
Cleaning should be the first task, then I assume that you've followed this procedure?
http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/m...ault&total=190
And procedure 40 & 41 here:
http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/m...ault&total=190
http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/m...ault&total=190
And procedure 40 & 41 here:
http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/m...ault&total=190
#13
#16
Update. I cleaned the TB's and cleaned all electrical connections (some where pretty bad) and tried the WD40 to get the high idle corrected. Didnt work. Ordered the part. Going to tackle the PCV's also when it comes in. Will keep you posted. Thanks again.
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