domsgarage

Starts up but dies almost immediately for the most part.

Im thinking a fuel issue maybe? Theres pressure in the line but it will consistently start up and run for maybe 3-10 seconds and then die.

The best I can describe it is like when you try to start a motor cycle after not riding it all winter.

It turns and turns and then eventually starts up and dies and starts a little more and dies and then starts and runs low and you cant give it gas or it dies, like that.

I think it just needs to warm up but I cant get to that point.

It fires up right away, stayed at about 2k for about 5 seconds then lowered and bogged out.

Any ideas besides a fuel issue?

domsgarage

I ran the diagnostic just to see if anything popped up. Got a 55.

the check engine light doesnt come on either.

KasbeKZ

def a fuel issue. could be fuel pressure regulator. just check your fuel pressure though. there are a few other things it could be, and once you get a fuel pressure gauge hooked up, you'll be able to narrow it down to the engine bay or the fuel pump. probably even more narrow than that.

domsgarage

You can hear the pump prime up and what not.

There is pressure, i didnt take a gauge to it yet but i pulled the line and, well, gas doesnt taste good.

I was thinking regulator also, i still have the one off of my old motor so thats not really an issue.

Itll start and one in a while I can rev it up to like 3500-4000ish. But it just drops and dies, its not a quick drop its more of a slow then bog drop.

Another question regarding fuel though that might not be known. The motor I got had the old style injectors on it, I havent checked them yet, but i had to splice on the old style connectors. Do you think that could have anything to do with it?

snwbrderphat540

if you did a bad wiring job it could. idk the real process behind that, nor WHY you would even do that instead of just pulling the plenum when the motor was out of the car and replacing the injectors and rail for the new style setup.

if i also recollect, randy always says that sometimes people that pull and replace their motors in these cars sometimes connect the fuel feed/return lines on the improper ends of the fuel rail.

domsgarage

Its just a matter of connecting two wires.

I didnt realize the injectors were different until i was hooking up the wires, it was easier just to splice the connectors (i had a set in my garage) on instead of ordering / waiting for new injectors. The injectors from the other motor have twice as much mileage. The tops look almost identical, the new style is just roundish and a little smaller.

I thought about the feed/return line as well, im going to check that out in a little bit as well.

domsgarage

The lines are right.

domsgarage

I didnt think about this until now but what about timing? I dont really know the history of the motor as far as being shuffled around.

snwbrderphat540

tis possible, but usually it wouldn't start at all but possible. however idk, doubtful since i bet it was never touched since it left the factory and it would sputter and huff and puff and pop most likely if the timing was that bad.

and you suuuuuuuure its just a injector clip change/ the impedance and all that technical crap with resistance and so forth that is involved with injectors but few people know about, is all the same...

KasbeKZ

either check fuel pressure, or go ahead and switch your old FPR over.

domsgarage

Switched the FPR. Messed with the timing slightly maybe like 3 1mm increments to the right and 1mm to the left, did nothing, but it back to the stock setting.

Picking up a fuel gauge in a bit.

domsgarage

neither of those changes did anything.

its definitely fuel, just need to find out what it is.

its funny though, when i got back to my house with the motor, i went to pull my jeep out of the driveway (daily driver) and that wouldnt start either. it was awesome coming home to two broken cars. that was also a fuel issue, turned out to be the FPR.

domsgarage

Fuel pressure is at 50 while "running" (poorly, stumbling).

It goes to about 35ish between starts.

domsgarage

Bump.

Still not staying running.

Changed the FPR and the other regulator? on the other side of the fuel rail.

Tested the pressure, 50 while it was "running" 35 while its not.

Checking the injectors today.

KasbeKZ

does it hold fuel pressure or does it drop? the drop is what indicates the FPR problem.

i'm not sure what else to tell you. unplug your MAF and see if it starts better like that. you have both intake pipes on and hooked up properly? all idle control valve connectors are nice and clean? if all that's good, i think i'd be swapping my old CAS over to check that.

what again happened to your original engine?

domsgarage

Not sure what happened to the original engine but with the issues I did have it made more sense to get a new one then pour money into it.

The issue with it running was a stupid one, and im almost embarrassed to say it considering how much work ive done to the car. But, i pulled the maf out when i took the intake out because i didnt want it getting weathered with the center panel off, and well, i never put it back. Saw it staring me in the face when i was in my garage today, threw it in and its running. It sounds good too, ill post a video of it or something soon.

I do have a bad injector, which sucks, but it looks easy to get to without taking the plenum off. Once its running right ill replace them all.

As of now it sounds good, i need to put the rest of the exhaust on, bleed the brakes and take her for the maiden voyage.

Thanks for the help though. Very much appreciated. I wish you chimed in a little earlier though kas!

KasbeKZ

good stuff man. so it wouldn't even idle well because there was no maf?

domsgarage

Nah, all it would do was start up then bog out or just start and die.

Its running a little rough now, but its more then driveable. I just gotta fix that miss and i think itll be pretty solid. It sounds real good.