how idd you polish the master cylinder im intrested ive been wanting to polish some stuff, but sandpaper is taking me so damn long...........

 

bondo isnt bad as long as your not using large amount to fill up large holes..

 

well i started out with a flap wheel then i took a pen and wraped it in 180 grit sand paper to get in the round corners, then i went to 220 and sanded everything,then 400 then 600 grit scothbright(red) then 800 (grey). then after that i used black compound untill it had a low luster followed by triploi,then white roughs then blue. you dont have to do the blue but i did. then some mothers aluminum polish for the finshing touches. so you know i have all types of flap wheels differnt shapes sizes. grits and so on. go get a selection of them there awsome and a fast way to remove the pits in aluminum. also i forgot one thing i used, I have tootsie rolls in differnt grits that help in tight abnormal shaped corners and stuff

 

yeah i agree. you can use it on small item i did use a tiny bit. not anuff to worry about. i used glass putty for large holes for strenth

 

ok tomarrow I will have pictures of my big 90 L.B. box of goodys yay from Z1. i will post tehm tomarrow when they come. i just went paint shoping for the car. I got Black paint for the engine bay. some tuff towels( by the way the best around lint free) some 3m tape 5 gallon jub of thinner to clean my engine parts and some other odds and ends. later on im going to the special bolt store to pick up a couple boxes of ss nuts and bolts with alen head type heads. im doing the hole engine in them along with acron nuts on the master clyinder nuts and the pillow ball upper mounts to trick out the engine bay.
man im going Nuts here. its so close to done its making me impatiant. but i wont let that get to me tho.

 

here is a picture of a few flap wheels and tootsie rolls that i use. the flap wheels retain the shape of what your sanding, as long as you keep moving it back and forth and dont stay in one spot. also always sand down the high spots to get to the low spots or you will ahve divits in the metal

 

hmmm.... you know if instead of wrapping pens in the sand paper you wrapped a drill bit in it you could made a custom rotary sander saved some time and strength.

 

yes I could do that but that is what the tootsie rolls are for, the only reason i used a pen is because i was down in the 400 grit range and I wanted to hand sand. also im curous to know how you would make the sand paper to stay on the drill bit, also the ridges on the bit would chew right thur the paper

 

not if you glue it use epoxy and a bityou dont use/want/can spare.

 

lol honestly u only have to get rid of the pits on the aluminum andcan buff most of the rest out, but you need a strong big buffer. but i honestly wanted to sand it more to make it easyer to buff

 

ok guys new parts in yay!!!! i HAVE A NEW cARBONETICS Carbon LSD, earls oil cooler from Z1, 3 inch labree pipes ate brake fluid, chomonmly pivit ball new throw out bearing, brake clyinder brace and spl shift bushings, oh and the kill manfiolds they are F**** awsome never seen a better design b4

 

ok opiouns needed. i have wraped my down pipes ill have pics later, i can wrap my ms manifolds, also the manifolds are cast so im going to polish the inside to further increase teh output. so the question is should i buy 2 turbo wraps for the turbine sid eof my turbos to help with lag and heat? and has any one tired them ? i want minimal heat so im wraping anything i can. now my engine , do you think its worth the money to have my guy blueprint my motor? should i spend the extra load of cash on it??

 

hmm... idk know about wraping the turbo;s... it will keep heat out of the engine bay, but it will keep heat inside the turbo.... i would just try to make a sort of heat shield instead of wraping the turbo itself.... just wrap any exhuast part in the engine bay... ie exhuast manifolds and down pipes....

 

Do you mean that you would consider building a high performance engine without blueprinting it?

 

no i was doingh it any way just wanted opiouns on it

 

ok guys my blueprinted engine is on the way from Z1! i should have it next week. hopfully it gets here sooner. I am going ot have lots of pictures of the assembly when i get it. I just polished the inside of my mike smith manifolds for even more flow and less lag. and im going to get a manfold blanket for both manfolds and not wrap them, i want minumal heat problems. also the sheilds bolt back on to. im also going to get a 2 turbo wrap kits. they help to protect the turbos compressor side for heat, and increase exhaust volocity for quiker spool up. i have my engine bay painted and im in the middle of paining the base coat. I am going ot snad my base coat down with 1200 for the alutimate finsh b4 my kandy is applyed and clear.(witch will be done in a booth) not my garage. i installed my new rearend the other day. so i now have a spare diff. just incase i want to swap when the other needs to be adjusted. I am in the middle of making custom 65 mill intake piping ,my self. ash said he wont have my pipes by the time i want them so im guna make my own and go bigger. then later if i want to upgrade to a bigger turbo i can with no problems with the intake piping. i saw a z with 90 mill thottle bodys and 1200 horsepower street car it was crazy.

 

sweet. keep posting pics

 

thanks bro here is some pictures of the color only the base. the reson for the color is i want it to some what look black at night but when the light hits it its blue and where theres no like its black you will see in the pictures what im talking about with teh camera flash. als i socketed 2 ecu's so i could have 4 computers. for differnt setups why i wait for my aem to get here i have to clean the circuit board the flux from the solder is all over it. The color is lapis blue base, followed by colbolt kandy, then laying some serous clear on and its all geting a show finsh no orange peel. ( i hate orange peel)

 

why do you need more than two programs?

ash sells a 2 program toggle switch

 

well plain and simple, im going to make a pump gas program one on gas no no2, 1 programs race fuel no no2, 1 programs pump gas with nitrous and one with race fuel and nitrous, i also wanted a programs for water injection on both of them. and i also want a program i can use specificaly for passing smog, detuned for 87 octane with the best setup to pass. i have 7000 series mattilic cats coming 3 inch and im making a custom 3 inch system my self welding it all together. it will be sweet i was thinking of cutouts, but im guna make the cats removable so i can put a mini test pipe in also. when im aem comes in the near future ill just have all my programs saved and hook up the labtop and change my setings, if you can direct me to a better plan id love to hear your opiouns on everything. also id like maybe a picture discription on the toggle swqitch system so i possible can make ity my self and not pay. I can make my own circiut boards and no how to etch and make my own. iv taken lots of electical enginiering on building circuit boards and stuff so maybed you can direct me towerds on how to pissboly make a 4 way toggle for 4 differnt programs. everthing is possble. just none has bin done yet. maybe ic an be the first to construct a 4 way program system ya never no.

 

youll have to talk to ash about his switch.

how long are you having to wait for the FMS? i dont really see a reason to make that many programs now without even having the z done and setting up baseline tunes for your mods. also, i may be wrong, but just because you have a nitrous tune, doesnt mean that you can only use it if youre spraying nitrous.

imo cutouts are a better idea than pulling the cats every time you want to free up your exhaust. easier and more fun.

 

deffently i agree i ges i could make them both possibled ot remove and use cutouts. for the programs i would just feel i could have a race program specific for nitrous and the turbos you may be right . i m not done and no im not making programs yet. just socketing ecu's for chipes that are programed for my specs that iwant when i dfo get done. i juyst feel if i made seprate programes i could get more power more setedy power curve that is tune for wat im doing. even if its only 5 or 10 horse power difernce on the drag strip tahts all it takes to win. i honestly never tuned up for this ,and im learning a hell of alot doing so. and in my opioun i would think from what i know that i could run a safe more efficent program for my setup of wat im doing. that is my reason for thinking and doing what i have. im am up for any adivce on it as i havent ran or done antthing crazy before with my z untill now. i figured its all learning expericance with dong wat i thought was proper. i could be wrong i could be right but that is why i love talking about Z's and what i think would be the best

 

i think the pump gas with nitrous one is kinda pointless....

 

id would love to hear why it is pointless if i want to use a sppol up on the street why not have a programs. maybe u think its pointless to even use nutrous on the streets but i get 20 miles to the gallon on ntrous when i use it.

 

i think it would be pointless to use it on teh streets. its for your own good. less abuse on the engine when your driving it ont eh streets, less temtations to wanna race on teh streets. you should make a pump gas tune, a race gas tune (when nitrous is empty or w.e) and then a race gas and nitrous tune. why would you really need all 4? youd just be keeping your self out of trouble, and putting less abuse on your engine.