New Z
#1
New Z
OK I am looking at buying a Z32 here shortly and was putting together a list of mods to hopefully reach ~450-500WHP. Here is what I have so far:
JWT Dual Pop Charger
Intake Hard Pipes - Not sure who to go through for these...
Greddy SMIC
JWT Sport 600 or Z1 GT600R - Any advice?
CZP Down Pipes
SZ 2.5" High Flow Cats
B&B Exhaust 2.5"/4.5" Tips
JWT ECU Upgrade
300 Degree 555cc Nismo Injector Kit
Unorthodox Pulley Set w/ belts
JWT Street Clutch Kit
JWT Flywheel
Greddy Profec B Spec II Boost Controller
CZP Short Throw Shifter
Stop Tech Stage 1 Brake Upgrade
Koyo Radiator/CZP Bracket
I am just looking for streetable performance that is emissions legal. I'd rather not get into engine internals, but would if I have to.
Any comments/suggestions are more than welcome.
JWT Dual Pop Charger
Intake Hard Pipes - Not sure who to go through for these...
Greddy SMIC
JWT Sport 600 or Z1 GT600R - Any advice?
CZP Down Pipes
SZ 2.5" High Flow Cats
B&B Exhaust 2.5"/4.5" Tips
JWT ECU Upgrade
300 Degree 555cc Nismo Injector Kit
Unorthodox Pulley Set w/ belts
JWT Street Clutch Kit
JWT Flywheel
Greddy Profec B Spec II Boost Controller
CZP Short Throw Shifter
Stop Tech Stage 1 Brake Upgrade
Koyo Radiator/CZP Bracket
I am just looking for streetable performance that is emissions legal. I'd rather not get into engine internals, but would if I have to.
Any comments/suggestions are more than welcome.
#2
"this portion was added cause B thinks it was mean".... good to see an aspiring Z owner though and welcome. since you didnt ask much ill just through out a few pointers and questions. Zlover has about a 500hp Z32 and pretty sure he is still runing a single pop charger. "this section removed for possible innacuracies, but still, does he need it, a dual pop charger?". greddy SMIC's arent very good, do a search and you'll see Zlover4life has an AMAZING write up on Z32 intercoolers. and stillen or ash's intercoolers are your best bet. intake hard pipes are really, no big nore necessary. search Z32 sites they will have them, that or at least upgraded silicone ones. charge pipes however would be great for being solid pipes. theres also a great discussion on turbo's for the Z32 on here. look it up also. as for your exhaust, shooting for 500whp and it being a turbo car. the better you can make the exhaust flow the happier your car will be. id say stick with 3" good choice on ECU they dont tune the most powerful but thats cause they leave a little richness to keep your motor safer. good radiator. good injectors. and etc. only other thing i would say is, never heard to much about JWT clutches. but im a big fan of building your own setup. aka fidanza flywheel and an ACT cltuch/pressureplate assembly.
also, just curious as how old you are and what you do for a living, because with car purchase that part list and assuming (and thats strictly assuming not saying that you cant) you cant do all the work yourself, thats a pricey job your taking on there. 15-20 grand including car purchase.
welcome to Zdriver though. if your not already a member, id suggest joining twinturbo.net for searching and their classifieds. but i wouldnt post something like this over there... they are religiously bussiness over there when it comes to their forums and Z32's.
also, just curious as how old you are and what you do for a living, because with car purchase that part list and assuming (and thats strictly assuming not saying that you cant) you cant do all the work yourself, thats a pricey job your taking on there. 15-20 grand including car purchase.
welcome to Zdriver though. if your not already a member, id suggest joining twinturbo.net for searching and their classifieds. but i wouldnt post something like this over there... they are religiously bussiness over there when it comes to their forums and Z32's.
Last edited by snwbrderphat540; 11-29-2007 at 04:47 PM.
#3
Originally Posted by snwbrderphat540
not to be rude, but this is a bit pointless... you didnt ask anything, or introduce yourself, and you dont have a Z yet....
#4
if youre planning on replacing turbos, you will probably be removing the engine. while its out you should do any and all maintenance that you can. also, look into a 1 piece driveshaft.
look for hardpipes at Z1 or from scott smith
snw, you dont need a MAF simulator AND a reflash. there are 2 routes. you can go with 2 MAFs and tune them with an SAFC, or you can reprogram the EPROM so that it reads 50% of the incoming air.
look for hardpipes at Z1 or from scott smith
snw, you dont need a MAF simulator AND a reflash. there are 2 routes. you can go with 2 MAFs and tune them with an SAFC, or you can reprogram the EPROM so that it reads 50% of the incoming air.
#5
i thought i was chill... i dont get it? what i do. and ok theres those other routes, but still, its more along the lines of, does he really need to spend that money yet? isnt teh single pop charger good enough for those plans? just saying no point in spending more money that doesnt assist you.
but seriously, i was chill!!! now you got me feeling like a D-bag. i was just saying that so maybe he would edit his post or add one at least introducing himself, ill make it a little more nicer then :P
also ive heard of a way replacing the turbos from under the car but its a close/tight fit or something along those lines. and sorry if i mixed the two methods. im only human.
but seriously, i was chill!!! now you got me feeling like a D-bag. i was just saying that so maybe he would edit his post or add one at least introducing himself, ill make it a little more nicer then :P
also ive heard of a way replacing the turbos from under the car but its a close/tight fit or something along those lines. and sorry if i mixed the two methods. im only human.
#6
it wasnt that bad, but i thought it was unnecessary. he posted what he needed an opinion on.
i read on TT.net that the MAF is running at max voltage somewhere in the +400whp range, and there are those 2 options. other than that, i really dont know much more.
ive also heard that too. thats why i said probably
i read on TT.net that the MAF is running at max voltage somewhere in the +400whp range, and there are those 2 options. other than that, i really dont know much more.
ive also heard that too. thats why i said probably
#7
There have been tests to show that a dual pop will yield gains on even a lightly modded TT, but Eric is right - I'm somewhere in the area of 500+rwhp and I'm still on a single pop. Next time I have an injector die on me though, I'm switching to 740's and dual pop at the same time so I don't need to rechip my ECU ever again.
JWT Street Clutches are ok... but I'm on my second one in 4 years. They're not made for this much power, but they'll do the trick for a couple years. I'd recommend something with a little more bite if you actually do all this work.
Read the sticky at the top of the forum page about intercoolers. GReddy are good for that power level, but I'd say Stillen or Z1 are better (and cost about the same).
Hardpipes - unnecessary.
You may or may not need the 300Degree fuel rail kit (which is what I assume you're referring to) depending on which year 300ZX you buy (if you even buy one - I've seen so many people post their plans and never follow through... I guess when you're 15/16 years old, it's nice to have dream).
Turbos... I wouldn't recommend Sport 600's for the simple fact that they're thrust bearing turbos. It's like getting a new carbeurated engine for your 300ZX - there's better technology out there. They're not bad turbos, but for the cost, I'd recommend a pair of Garrett GT2860R or RS turbos - ball bearing and the equivalent of a JWT Sport 700 (with a different trim and housings) or an HKS GT2530, but cost less. As for me, I'm running HKS GT2530's... and now that they're done giving me trouble, I remember why I stuck with them through the tough times.
Exhaust - stay away from B&B if you want one that fits right and is made well. Get Specialty Z. And if money's tight, 2.5" will be sufficient for your goals. (I'm running 2.5" HKS Hi-Power.) As for high flow cats, they're useless. Couple horsepower gain at best. Get test pipes and save the cats for when you have to test for emissions. Or move to Illinois where OBDI cars no longer have to test for emissions.
Pulleys - unnecessary, and can hurt performance in some aspects. Underdriving the alternator means less voltage to power your ignition system. Underdriving the water pump means overheating issues during heavy driving (but BilZki [Bernie Bilski] makes an overdrive waterpump pulley to correct this).
Short shifter - don't pay big money from a vendor for this. Talk to Woody75 or SilverTwin(OH) on TwinTurbo.NET. $75 for a short shifter through either one of them, and they're great.
JWT Street Clutches are ok... but I'm on my second one in 4 years. They're not made for this much power, but they'll do the trick for a couple years. I'd recommend something with a little more bite if you actually do all this work.
Read the sticky at the top of the forum page about intercoolers. GReddy are good for that power level, but I'd say Stillen or Z1 are better (and cost about the same).
Hardpipes - unnecessary.
You may or may not need the 300Degree fuel rail kit (which is what I assume you're referring to) depending on which year 300ZX you buy (if you even buy one - I've seen so many people post their plans and never follow through... I guess when you're 15/16 years old, it's nice to have dream).
Turbos... I wouldn't recommend Sport 600's for the simple fact that they're thrust bearing turbos. It's like getting a new carbeurated engine for your 300ZX - there's better technology out there. They're not bad turbos, but for the cost, I'd recommend a pair of Garrett GT2860R or RS turbos - ball bearing and the equivalent of a JWT Sport 700 (with a different trim and housings) or an HKS GT2530, but cost less. As for me, I'm running HKS GT2530's... and now that they're done giving me trouble, I remember why I stuck with them through the tough times.
Exhaust - stay away from B&B if you want one that fits right and is made well. Get Specialty Z. And if money's tight, 2.5" will be sufficient for your goals. (I'm running 2.5" HKS Hi-Power.) As for high flow cats, they're useless. Couple horsepower gain at best. Get test pipes and save the cats for when you have to test for emissions. Or move to Illinois where OBDI cars no longer have to test for emissions.
Pulleys - unnecessary, and can hurt performance in some aspects. Underdriving the alternator means less voltage to power your ignition system. Underdriving the water pump means overheating issues during heavy driving (but BilZki [Bernie Bilski] makes an overdrive waterpump pulley to correct this).
Short shifter - don't pay big money from a vendor for this. Talk to Woody75 or SilverTwin(OH) on TwinTurbo.NET. $75 for a short shifter through either one of them, and they're great.
#9
Thanks for the responses so far, and here is a more proper introduction.
I am currently deployed in Iraq as a mechanic and am looking into getting a Z32 when I get back. I have done some research and that was the list I came up with. But since I am not experienced with this vehicle I thought I would post it so more experienced users could give some constructive criticism. I'm not some young pup with dreams of a super-car for my 16th birthday. I'm 25, been married for 5 years and have 2 kids. I don't plan to buy all this at once, but I am getting a Z32, probably early 90's, when I get back. As long as I survive that long, god willing. I would have posted more of an intro before, but I didn't think it was unnecessary to get some basic opinions/suggestions. Thank you all for you responses so far and I will look into what has been said so far. Hopefully I can get some more points-of-view as well in the near future.
Sincerely,
SPC Wallace, Iraq
I am currently deployed in Iraq as a mechanic and am looking into getting a Z32 when I get back. I have done some research and that was the list I came up with. But since I am not experienced with this vehicle I thought I would post it so more experienced users could give some constructive criticism. I'm not some young pup with dreams of a super-car for my 16th birthday. I'm 25, been married for 5 years and have 2 kids. I don't plan to buy all this at once, but I am getting a Z32, probably early 90's, when I get back. As long as I survive that long, god willing. I would have posted more of an intro before, but I didn't think it was unnecessary to get some basic opinions/suggestions. Thank you all for you responses so far and I will look into what has been said so far. Hopefully I can get some more points-of-view as well in the near future.
Sincerely,
SPC Wallace, Iraq
#10
What do you guys think of the Z1 clutch/flywheel pack? Or would the RPS Twinturbo MAX Street be more what I need? Like I said I am not going to be racing, I just need something to hold the power for some street fun.
Last edited by Fragsrus; 11-30-2007 at 11:43 PM.
#13
hmmm....well i was searching for 91zxtt's build but cant find anything more recent than 2004... is that what your referring to Riz? If not maybe you would be kind enough to post a link to the correct thread.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#15
Originally Posted by Fragsrus
hmmm....well i was searching for 91zxtt's build but cant find anything more recent than 2004... is that what your referring to Riz? If not maybe you would be kind enough to post a link to the correct thread.
Thanks.
Thanks.