was thinking about hooking up a 50 shot to the z for local flashlight drags we have around here... didnt do to bad last race did beat a vr6 volks. gti which i was much after but got beat by a new 350z..got my *** whooped actually and kinda beat by a mid 90's auto mustang.. who was putting a whooping on other stangs that i beat. least i hung with him but getting beat by an auto stang... yea kinda sux... anybody hook up any NOS to their z's??i have read a small 50 shot wont hurt to much but was wondering since the dual throttle plates has anybody found a good way to do it??

 

dual nozzles with a T in the line.... DURRR!!!! lol jk, but honestly, you gots an NA Z32, nos is the only way oull really be able to pull good power from it, but i dont recomend it, at least not till you have a ful exhaust system and intake gotta let the car breathe better before you no2 it. looks like you may already have an intake though.

 

if your braggin that you beet a puny vr6 you need to race some real cars, dont forget bigger injectors, fuel pump and an AFC..

 

The JWT system( computer controlled) is a 80 shot, but they recommend TT injector.

http://www.ultimatez.com/shop/?shop=...53&cart=878330

I've beat GT's(pre-04's), just letting you guys knows

 

bigger injectors for sure i forgot about that, bigger fuel pump though.... i doubt it the Z's have pretty healthy fuel pumps.

 

bottles are for babies.

OH NOES DANGER TO TEH MANIFOLDZZZZ!!!!!1111111eleven!!!

 

NOS unlike a turbo needs to be refilled often.

 

That is true, but that would also depend on how often you are on the spray.
Plus this is not a NA bashing thread, so don't say $h!t like that.
The "it's still not a tt", remark is getting pretty old.

 

i havent seen anyone bash yet.

p.s. only NOS i plan on ever buying is the good kind... new old stock

 

not an NA bashing thread. NAAAAAAWWWWSSSSSS bashing .

and i prefer the "it's still not a slicktop" remark.

 

to NOS, its refilling, sure the NA engine can take 50 shot all day long with a remapped ECU putting in more gas but, NOS runs out pretty quick. Better than a turbo? Bashing the NA? Nope, just stating the downside.

 

Have you ever used nitrous before? or been around someone that has used it?
It can last a while if you aren't driving down the street the purging and racing light to light. The only thing that can guive the feeling of "running out" is a low bottle pressure. If you have a bottle heater, the pressure is sustained and power is consistent.
yup, sorry for being a turd

 

You guys have no idea how long I've been waiting to use that.

Anyway... bottles are for babies... real men get blown. There are better ways of making REAL horsepower. You haven't told us anything about your modifications, so I'll go through a shortened list: Intake, FULL exhaust, ECU, then porting and polishing, extrude honing, etc. And make sure to do it right (JWT Pop Charger > K&N, HKS Hi-Power or Specialty Z exhaust > all else, and so on). It'd be more reliable while milking the VG30DE for all it can do naturally. When all else is done, I still say turbos are better than nitrous.

 

I agree.
If I had TT I would be quite chipper

 

i will go thru my mods that i have... and also will disagree with the remapping of the ecu for the nos as i have been told by others.. i have 3-1 headers with no egr system... test pipes onto hks hi-power exhuast.. my intake...is a simple bomz intake where i fabricated out the baffling boxes..(brazed patch pieces over the nipples where they did go so i have straight air from the filter to the throttle plates).. i have hooked up an electric cooling fan on the vehicle to eliminate the hi dragging clutch fan.. im no amatuer and am lookin for simple techniques... not a war between the tt an n/a..hey if i had 3,000 grand id buy the tt swap.. but the car came cheap..and nos is way cheaper and less time consumin than the swap.. so until my n/a 6 blows i will continue to run her as hard as i can.. i run royal purple in the engine and trans.. and lucas oil in the rear end. ... remapping ur ecu for NOS is bad..depending on who does it...it can advance ur timing a couple degrees..good for reg. fuel use...BUT think why would u wanna advance timing on a way more combustible fuel such as NOS.. very very bad things can happen. rather than that 100% combustion ur lookin for u can have a possible pre-detonation or possible explosion inside the engine if advanced to far.. i have read this into farther depth for all vehicles not just the z i just wanted a good , hidden proffesional way of hookin it up.. we're all fellow z members y debate between the n/a and tt
and i agree zlover for life.. but porting and polishing... the n/a z lets be realistic.. porting and polishing by a reputable company that can do it right other than dirty joe next door ur lookin at at least a 1,000 just for that not including the gaskets you will need.. and the time it will consume to get that far.. for that money and time...i tt swap is recommended.. or a 800 good setup of NOS is better

MIKEZ and snowboarderphat--> thanks for the helpful comments... unlike the other tt' owners u guys know whats up lol

 

oh yea i seen u would wanna put more gas into the n/a with nos... im pretty sure there is what they call a "wet" system out there that has an injector that shoots nos and gas into the vehicle at the same time... what would you guys think of that instead of buying all new injectors?? i know it would probably help that i did buy the bigger cc ones and a better fuel pump... but for now i am thinking the wet system may do the trick??

 

lol Let me guess, you also think running a wet shot is better than a dry shot too?

If you're serious about making horsepower with your car, go get a JWT Pop Charger. Your logic of Nitrous > quality intake is not favorable in this community.

And I'm not trying to be mean... if you think I am, go post your questions on twinturbo.net and let me know how their responses compare.

 

Well the ECU is made by JWT( who is the best Z tuning company imo), it retards the timing under NOS use so no worry about detonation. It is a very safe buy if you go with the JWT( cause my friend drew runs a 60 shot and hasn't ran into any probs in the last 2 years). The burn that they map is exactly how it should be made, and can be tailored to the mods that you have, you give 'em a call and they are more than helpful
But you do what you feel is right, alot of times gut feelings are better than, taking some kid's (me) opinion.
So go now, and build me a mighty Z my son!


EDIT: Yeah ZLover is being a downright gentle right now lol

 

Aaaaand putting a wet system would be biiiaaatch!

 

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...NA%20300ZX.PDF

 

in the intake was to make the speed/volume of the air uniform under acceleration in, say, like windy conditions. Perhaps if you put a balance tube before the intakes it might keep the pressures equal. You could also just buy a couple of leaf blowers and hook them up to your intakes with a couple Y tubes, put their throttles on a cable running to the cabin. I'm pretty sure you can get another 50-100hp like that. I'm sure I saw a youtube video about a couple guys doing this to a civic.

that way when you race people you can just start up the ol' leaf blowers and really kick some ***.

 

It's not that wet systems are exceedingly difficult to install (it's actually easier than doing a properly set up dry system, which is why wet systems are more common), it's that they're a pathetic way of attaining the proper air/fuel/nitrous oxide ratio. Not to mention the "you need more fuel to compensate the nitrous, so you need a wet shot" is a simplistic, under informed statement about dry systems.

By spraying fuel into the intake tubes (which is what every wet system does), you're not guaranteeing equal dispersion of fuel to all 6 cylinders. Considering fuel is heavier than air, you can be sure that doing this would result in a rich condition in cylinders 1 and 2, while cylinders 5 and 6 run lean. Think of Chevy's notorious "throttle body injection" system... there's a reason everyone uses direct port fuel injection now.

The common misconception of a dry system is that there is no fuel compensation for the nitrous. No dry nitrous system was ever intended to be sprayed without any fuel compensation. The difference is that a dry system does not inject fuel into the intake stream, but relies on the ECU to richen up the fuel maps, thus spraying the additional fuel through the car's own fuel injectors. This results in a much more even dispersion of the necessary fuel, which allows you to make more power and do it more safely. A properly done dry kit will include an ECU tune that is meant to accommodate nitrous. That is how JWT's system works.

If you've seen a dry kit that had no ECU alterations, then you've seen an idiot who doesn't understand this. Most moderately intelligent people will tend to favor a wet shot because they don't know how to tune an ECU, nor do they want to spend the money and effort to have a dry shot done properly. Meanwhile, the people who want the best performance possible will get a dry kit and have a tuned ECU.

This is all disregarding the physics of the bottle itself... as said, it does run empty and require refilling. But as forgotten, when a bottle is first filled, the pressure inside the bottle is higher. Higher pressure results in a higher shot (you'll actually get about 50hp on a 50 shot). As the bottle empties, the pressure decreases. That 50 shot nozzle is going to start to get you less horsepower after every use. Additionally, when the car sits in the sun and the bottle heats up, your 50 shot might become an engine-destroying 150 shot. To have a consistent nitrous system requires a LOT of understanding of this... keeping bottle pressure fairly constant to result in consistent performance is not for someone who doesn't understand that.

And here's the economics of it... a bottle, refilling it often, bottle bracket, bottle warmer, necessary gauges to monitor bottle pressure, hardware, custom tuning (the JWT program is ok, but if you want more power you're gonna pay for it), a remote bottle opener (unless you want to hop out of the car and open it every time you need it), Twin Turbo injectors, and all the other little goodies to make a safe, consistent nitrous system will cost you as much if not more than a Twin Turbo front clip from Coz or Z1 Motorsports. And I can promise you that a Stage III Twin Turbo will still be faster.

If you think I'm trying to **** in your Wheaties, I'm not... I'm just trying to save a VG30DE while saving you an assload of frustration and money in the process.

 

you do realise that many of us who are telling you NOS is a bad idea are NOT TT drivers, right? seriously, why ask a question if you are just going to automatically disregard anyone that tells you something other than what you decided you want to hear?

 

im not disregarding anythind but such comments as stated above like go to twinturbos.net and see what they say about nitrous in one of the previous comments what good would that do?.. anyhow i hadnt realized that jwt had maps for the comp. for installing NOS. i guess all my options werent researched... and the leaf blower comment..thats brilliant i think i may purchase 2 homelite blowers tonite and rig up a system .. comments like those entropy31..are the ones unuseful and not necessary .. but the ones that would explain things in more of a break down are good... every day is a learning process of my car since day 1. i enjoy learning not criticizing i'm still a young dude!! but oh well thanx for the comments guys.. and the balance tube....not very necessary if you notice on your throttle plates..just as in any motorcycle that has 4 tunnel rams for fuel injection or 4 carbs or any street rod that has 2 carbs... you WILL notice there is an adjustemnt screw to equalize the air goin into the engine there are guages and shops that can tune those corectly to make sure the correct volume of air is running through both intakes at one time and its not that hard of a process....

anyone know of any fall sales for leafs blowers???? id like to tell you where to put those blowers..but i'll be nice and refrain myself. thank ya!!

 

I have a running theory that has kept me mobile since I started driving:

Don't mod anything for racing you would miss on a daily basis if it exploded.