the reason that it's important if the CAS was tampered with is that if it is twisted, that's how you adjust your timing. so twisting it has f-ed up the way the car runs.

hobby shop.... the car? or the PTU? either way, the z is a pretty complicated car and demands some pretty particular knowledge. you can test the PTU with a multimeter. it tells you how in the FSM.

 

wait i dont know why i didnt think of this earlier but when you say CAS you mean the crank angle sensor right? because the bolts on that thing are loose and i dont know exactly what position that is supposed to be in. im going to replace all the plugs tommorow. i looked at them all and 1 was fouled pretty bad and the rest dirty. which plugs are the best for this car?

 

NGK platinum PFR6g - 11 fo NA's, and PFR6g - 11b's for TT.s

and yes CAS is crank angle sensor. the bolts shouldn't be lose, it controls timing, get a timing light and check it.

 

on second thought....

jk. but really. snug the bolts a little so that you can twist the CAS, put a timing light on it, and twist it until it's at 15 before TDC. if it won't start, crank it and twist the CAS slowly until it does start.

is there a way to static time a CAS car like you can with a distributer? as i remember my midget, it had a mark on the dizzy shaft or something that would line you up at TDC, then you could estimate a bit just to get a decent timing to get it started with.

 

so today i found the main problem with car not starting. but i wish i wouldnt have . i hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and im only getting 13psi while cranking the engine. so i have to replace the fuel pump and hopefully the fuel tank is okay. but where do you guys think i could find a good fuel pump for the least amount of $$.

 

... the Nissan dealership or your trusted Z32 parts vendor

 

don't go cheap on parts for this car. parts are expensive because they are good, and if you go cheap, they won't hold up.

i tried to go cheap a couple times. i got a cheap engine gasket set and now my head gaskets are leaking after 10k miles. never going cheap again.

 

Buy cheap, buy twice. But nobody ever listens to me. Strange... I guess people think I'm a liar.

 

walbro! lol but i hear the TT stock oem pump is great as is, and as far as buying cheap buy twice, thats hit or miss in the field of buying used but true OEM parts. so you will buy cheap but it could also be a worn part that will go soon or a part that will last like new. i only recommend that for a select few type of parts though for a car this picky.

 

Yeah, lots of people use Walbro 255lb pumps... but I know nothing of how easily they install in the Z32. Lots of high-horsepower Supras use Z32TT pumps, so I see no reason to need anything else.

 

exactly ^^^^ and its probably not any harder than installing a new OEM pump, unless you plan on just swapping the whole assembly/unit. thats the only way you'd save some time. but meh! i got a 255 in the DSM (which btw would be running right now if i didnt have the wrong year transfer case ) but yeah, the 255's put off the sexiest of a hum.... sooo sexy.... might be cheaper if you can't find a good deal on an OEM one

 

hey so i was looking up the walbro 255 and it said its better than the oem pump. is this true. if so how much better and is it reliable. i mean how good can a pump b that is 100 bucks. is it really as easy to install as it says. also how do i know for sure if my pump is really bad or weak. bc i was reading the chart for the walbro and i couldnt understand it. but like i said i was get 13 psi while cranking. thats not enough right. i dont have a rate of flow for when its started bc it still doesnt start. so help me out on this one. how many people have gone with walbro and what were the results..

 

i dont know the exact number for a Z32 but i think typically a fuel injected car uses like 40 psi to run. 13 is like a high pressure carburetor haha. walbro is a HUGE name how could you even ask how good the pump is? as for the install... i doubt it will be "easy" but i doubt it will be anything to challenging. probably jsut a bit time consuming removing the sender unit and then the original pump and then back again.

 

ok well that all sounds good to me. but have u ever heard of this site fuel express where they sell em for 100 bucks. is that to cheap for a walbro or does it sound about right

 

never heard of them... but the price is right around average. they market between 100-150 i think. for the DSM it was 109 (list 149) so doesnt sound to far fetched, i would just make sure they are an authorized dealer for walbro to be safe. that or shop from a place with a good reputation of Z parts would also be smart

 

Non turbo? I have an NA pump for sale. I'll give you a military discount. haha. Worked fine and dandy for the 5 years it was in my car.

The pump is really easy to change btw, just make sure you don't mess up the rubber gasket, it stretches very easily.

 

no. my z was non-turbo. but i got some twins now. so idk if the pump was ever changed. probably not. but its also probably the 17 year old stock pump as well so it deffentely was time to be replaced. but im deffenetly gonna get a walbro one and put that in and than start tuning her. thats if she finally turns over with a new fuel pump.

 

what kind of fuel pump controller do you have? TT or NA? Not sure how that will work with the walbro..

 

ok so i was just checking out the walbro fuel pumps and it said that the fpr is controlled by a vaccum line. well i still have a lot of them unconnected. so could this b my problem and the fuel pump is fine? like i said i only got 13psi when trying to start it. also if that isnt my problem do i need to buy a seperate fpr or will the stock one do. ok any help will be greatly appriciated thanks.

 

how will i be able to find that out because i dont know.

 

thats not the issue, with the vac line disconnected won't make your fuel pressure not raise past 13. but you shouldn't even by trying to start a car without all the vac lines hooked up in the first place!

 

Why the f*ck would you even try to start a car when everything's not connected yet? There are relatively few devices in the engine bay that are not essential to the engine being able to run.

 

well mainly bc i dont understand how vac lines work. and now you guys are probably going to say i dont deserve my car or something. but i just bought it bc it was a real good deal and im trying to learn everything about mechanics and this is a good way to do it. and yes there may be alot of things that are essential to it running. but trying to start it without a few things isnt going to hurt things too bad. but anyways where can i find where all the vac lines are located and how do i know if the fpr is from tt or na.

 

http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-b...ault&total=190

fsm is very good for things like that.

 

vac lines "work" in order to make sure the intake stays under vacuum, so it sucks in air and meter's it properly. no one is going to say you dont "deserve" it but you should really be more considerate of it i suppose. take your time and do things right the first time so you don't have to the second time.