Hurt it? Not usually (really depends on which components you're leaving out). But you just learned first-hand that you cannot leave vacuum lines pertaining to fuel regulation disconnected. The system works off the assumption that the fuel pressure is about 44psi at idle... if the fuel pressure regulator isn't getting the vacuum needed to do its job, you get less. If you get less fuel pressure, a pulse from the injectors won't dump the necessary fuel into the cylinders. If there's not enough fuel in the cylinders, they cannot fire. Leaving vacuum hoses off things like the cruise control and AIV components won't impact much (other than a crappy idle due to drawing in unmetered air)... but if it's related to fuel, timing, or ignition, it better be connected if you expect it to run. That's all there is to it.

 

I highly doubt that it is flooded. I would be willing to bet that you have the fuel lines on backwards.

 

no im sure i dont, i looked it up plenty of times before i put the fuel lines on.
i put the supply on the passenger side and the return on the drivers side of the engine.

 

well going back to the vac lines. i talked to a very knowledgable mechaninc on import cars. He said that not having the vac line on would only affect it about 10 psi. so mine only supplying 13 psi means that the pump is bad. so im trying to order a walbro for it now. but cant really find the best site. i found two sites selling it for 99.99 but i think they are fake or something. so i think i might go through z1 motorsports. for like 115.

 

actually i just found a pump made by tre performance what does everyone think of that company? here is the link if anyone wants to check it out.
http://treperformance.com/i-602-niss...1990-1996.html

 

never heard of them

 

2nd. Stick with well-known, reputable products.

 

Looks like a knockoff Walbro...

I love this:

This 255LPH fuel pump flows at a spectacular rate of 235LPH!

I guess 255 = 235 ?

 

Hi, I'm a red flag, nice to meet you.

 

ok so i put in the new fuel pump the other night and it still doesnt wanna start. i bypassed the fuel filter to make sure the wasnt the reason. i swapped the fuel lines to see if they were backwards even though i knew they werent. it seems like its getting a lot more fuel but still the same problem. i havent checked the pressure yet but im gonna do that today. any ideas of where the problem could be? like i said before if i spray a little started fluid in the carbs it starts to run almost regular but dies once the starter fluid runs out..

 

i forgot, do you still have spark?

check all your connections. they need to be clean AND tight.

 

yes i got plenty of spark

 

well check all the injector connections, cas connection, and make sure you have spark on every cylinder not just two or three. have you run the codes?

 

no i havent tried running codes. im gonna do that either tommorow or monday. ill check all the spark plugs too and im gonna pull all the injectors to make sure none of them are too dirty or clogged. my friend also said that my fuel might be bad, so i might drain the tank and put like 5 or 6 fresh gallons. im kinda thinkin it might have something to do with my fpr im gonna look into that when i check the pressure.

 

so i checked spark today and the plug on the passenger side closest to the front wasnt sparking at all. i didnt check the injectors bc i didnt know you have to pull the plenum and that just seems like to much work for me right now. but what does one or a couple plugs not sparking mean? im thinking timing. but also the plugs that i just changed a week ago are already black.
im really thinking that im just gonna save money and bring it to a mechanic.
how much does diagnostics cost to just have a mechanic check out stuff?

 

You do not have to pull the plenum to test injectors.

And did you ever check the timing like I told you to so long ago?

 

how do you test injectors without pulling the plenum.

and i dont think i have checked the timing could that really be the root of all my problems? so if i check my timing and find out that it is off. how do i fix it?

 

By adjust the CAS... do you ever search for things you want to know? That didn't even require a search since we told you on page 2 or 3 that the CAS was for adjusting the timing.

And you test injectors by pulling the connectors off and testing the resistance across the leads... should be 10-14ohms. Again, searching would've told you that.

 

ok well i understand that you can test the injectors that way. but it wont show me if they are dirty or clogged.

and i have messed with the cas and it is in the position the makes the engine run as much as it can. which isnt much..

 

one spark plug not firing is due to either a bad connection (most likely), or a bad coil pack. so, clean and tighten the connections on that plug very very well (as in make abso****inlutely sure that all three connectors are connecting), and test the coil pack as per the instructions in the online fsm while you have the mutli meter out to test the injectors.

there is nothing a mechanic can do that you can't with a little thinking. take it slow, think before you do things, and use the vast resources that forums provide you with, and you will be able to get it. just don't ruin the car doing stupid stuff before you do.

 

can one spark plug not running cause the engine to not run? i havent checked the two rear plugs yet so maybe one or two of them arent working.

 

no the car will run if one or even two spark plugs are the only problems. but you probably have more than that if you also allow the fuel injectors that you still haven't checked.