I heard alot about having to make new brackets and such when I was installing a new system in my 93 300zx. Screw that.

Buy 4 Infinity 4" speakers and install them into the bose brackets. Rewire the speakers.

done.

Easy, sounds great (You'll need some kind of subs with this setup) and I didn't have to worry about making or buying new brackets.

Just a little help for ya'll out there.

 

Did the infinitys fit in the stock bose enclosures? Also are we talking components or coaxials? cool idea, im just trying to figure it all out.
jon

 

Personally, I would say trash the BOSE amp, speakers, wiring, and do it fully custom. It is well worth the extra effor.

I have 2-6.5 Cadence comps in each door and a Cadence 4" in the floor. Also, I put the tweets in each pillar and behind each door vent.

Sounds a hell of a lot better than the stock BS and looks better too.

But thats just my opinion and I like my bass and my overall sound quality. I am probably the only Z in the US running 8-10" Subs in my hatch, or at least I have never seen anyone else do it.

ChromaZ

 

Just saving people some work, with very little gain for the effort.

I agree, you'll get a better sound if you do a full custom setup, and put bigger speakers in.....but that's alot of time, effort and money that some people arn't willing to put into their car.

I personally am spending my custom time in other areas of the car. Half the interior is fiberglassed and painted along with the color of the car. I'm also doing a fully custom, personal designed sub box for the trunk. I can't even describe the work we're doing to the tail light setup. Can you say, Ferarri? =P

Anyways, was just trying to give people another option, since their arn't very many to begin with.


Well, I just got sponsored by Tenzo Racing, so I've got alot of work to do.

Take it easy.

 

Actually 6.5 aren't bigger speakers. Theres really not a lot of time involved in putting 2-6.5 in the doors and mounting the tweets. I mean especially in your case, if you have already done a custom interior, custom doors simply complete the package. Hell I've considered a few things in my doors that I have never seen done on a Z, but I havent done it yet. Lets just say "anyone heard of fishman". If you have then you know what i'm talking about.

People, if you set your mind to it you can do anything you want to with your car. If you want to go the simple route, which a lot of people do, than Bart is right. But if you want to stand out from the crowd, sit down think about what you want, write it out and you can do anything you want.

Thats how my stereo started, I was driving down the road one day and a good friend was with me and told me we could do 8-10's in the hatch. Well, the next week i went out bought 8-10s, 2 amps and after sitting down and going through a bunch of BS we figured out exactly the box size, shape, etc. and we did it. Hell, its hard enough to get 8-10s in the hatch never mind 2 extra batteries, 2 caps, 2 amps and a 50 disc cd changer. It just goes to show that if you set your mind to it, you can do anything you want. You might have to really really think about it and go through some trial and error, but it is possible.

Hell, if you can turn a 300ZX into a station wagon, then you can do anything with it. I've seen so much done to Z's already and there is always someone else who thinks of something else.
I've seen body kits from other cars, hoods from different cars, all kinds of different headlights and taillights, door alterations, hood alterations, trunk alterations, you name it you can do it.

 

while we are talking about car audio.
I think that I need a beefed up alternator. Where can I get it and how much is it going to cost me? How hard is it to install and etc.? Thanks
jon

 

jonny,

I'm looking for one also. I've talked to a few people but havent received any responses yet. As soon as I get my stereo where I want it I will have to have one to run everything. I need one that provides at least 150 amp. I would prefer to have one around 200 amp. I did talk to a guy that has a 200 amp Stinger Alternator and he paid 1100 or 1200 for it and he will sell it for 500. But that is a little bit too much for me. For the most part, I believe that with Stinger, you are paying a lot for the name. Although, I have used and still use Stinger, I still believe you overpay for it.

Just my opinion.

Craig

 

Currently ive got two JL 10W0s and a 250/1 amp as far as subs go. I really dont know what I was thinking when I got them. Its wayyyy to conservative for me. what do you think:
one JL 13W7 and a JL 1000/1 amp
or
two JL 10W7s and two JL 500/1 amps
or
four JL 12W3s and two JL 500/1 amps
or maybe some other option?

I'm not going to do it this weekend or anything, but probably in 4-6 weeks. Probably after the roll bar goes in so things wont get in the way. Thanks man.
jon

 

Jonny,

I have 2 Earthquake 200dhc (2000 RMS) and 8 Earthquake SSB10's and I have plenty of bass. I mainly did it for show and to prove that it can be done. It is pretty loud but I think I'm going to redo it so that I can put more in. I would like to put in air bags and a video system. In order to do that I would have to cut down on the subs and totally redo the interior.

To remind everyone, its not about the number of subs you have its the quality. There is a guy running one amp and one 10" sub posting 160+ dB. He's doing it for the same reason I put 8-10s in my car, just to prove that it can be done.

Now as far as your situation is concerned, first of all I would have to ask if you plan to use it as a competition install or just for your listening pleasure. In either case I would make sure that I had a good line voltage coming into my amp...if you dont have a good voltage (I consider a good line voltage to be above 4 volts), then you should consider a line driver. You can get a good line driver for less than $200.

Now, for a deeper bass I would go with 2 12W7s or for a tighter bass I would go with 2 10W7s. The W3s do not impress me very much, but they do the job depending on what you want. If your looking to save money they do a good job, but that is up to you. Typically, the bigger the sub, the deeper the bass, the smaller the sub, the tighter the bass is. But if you go too deep (big) then **** sounds just like that "****", why do you think that 18's never really went over too well.

I will have to say that a lot of comps have been won with JL subs and Crossfire amps. I do not have very much experience with JL amps so I cannot really comment on them. However, I would say that you get the biggest amp that you can and still be within the recommended range of the sub.

Also, if you plan to compete, I would definitely recommend a digital amp, especially in a Z since you are not dealing with a strong alternator (that is unless you upgrade it). You can usually get twice the RMS power from a Class D amp than a Class A or B amp with the same amp load and a lot of times the amp load is less. Which is better! Alot Better!


Craig

 

i cant decide if i want to compete or not, it sounds like fun, but i may end up just using it for fun/show. suppose you had 2 grand and wanted to build a sweet woofer set up for my 2 seater, what would you do? i want something that looks as good(understaded but still tight) as possible and still have sweet bass. You know youre stuff, what would you do?
jon

 

Jonny,

Give me a little bit of time to think about what I would do. I have all kinds of ideas running through my head, but I will have to think about it.

If you were going to use it strictly to compete, then I would say build a wall right behind your seats and put your subs in that wall. In SPL one of the best ways to get a higher dB level is to cut down on the space you are pressurizing, which is all SPL is basically, get as much pressure into an area as possible. Of course you could build the wall so that it would look good too (but then you might run into a problem with the law, depending on your state). It blows my mind, in WV you can black out the back glass of a truck, hell you can paint it with black spray paint, but you are limited to 35% tint on a car??? I don't get it.

Now as far as competition is concerned, you would definitely need to get a beefier alternator or an extra battery or a capacitor, I already have 2 extra Optima batteries and 2 capacitors but I am considering getting either the CAP from Alumapro or an XStatic Batcap. Also, you better plan on getting a line driver and be prepared to probably spend more money. In competition, there are always people blowing subs, at the bigger shows the sub reps are normally there and usually have subs there on the spot to replace the blown subs with, but thats not always the case.

If you are going into SQL competition, then you are going into an area that I do not know too much about. Other than it takes a lot of planning. The best explanation that I have heard is this: "You are trying to make it sound like you are at a live concert, you want all of the music to sound as if it is coming from directly in front of you. You want it nice and crisp." The SQL guys are a different breed in my opinion, they are all really nice people, but they are a different breed. But I will have to admit, you get in one of the SQL cars and the music is sweet, the bass is tight, the highs are high, I mean it is really an experience if you get in a true SQL car. But like I said, I do not know very much about how to go about building an SQL car, you have to aim all of the speakers a certain way and like I said there is a lot of design work that goes into one. Check out http://www.vaperz.net/joe.html for a world champion SQL car.

If you want to see a major competitor in the SPL scene check out this link http://www.vaperz.net/billups.html He is now a rep for Cadence Audio.

And people say that WV ain't ****. Well, right there are two vehicles/people that are known throughout the SQL/SPL circuits.

But anyway jon, let me think about your install and I will get back with you.

Craig

 

go for the 10w7's. they handle waaaaay more power, are much cleaner sounding, and the will produce more output than the 4-12w3's. As a matter of fact the JL 500/1 amps aren't really big enought for this sub. Maybe more like a MTX1000d (1500WATTS) on each sub would be more appropriate. I have 1 MTX 1000d on 2 Eclipse aluminum 12's and it hammers.

 

This all came about because a friend of mine got a kicker 15inch L7, and its in this massive ported box. the box is HUGE, it looks like a mini could drive in through the port and park inside. anyways, i was coping with my crappy tens, but now i need to one up him so bad that he cant even compete.
i want a pretty bad settup, looks clean, but can work in the cramped interior of my coupe. i really want something that looks pretty stock.
i was thinking about putting the amps in the spare tire well, venting them with some kind of fan setup, and cutting a hole in the carpet and filling it with plexiglass. off to either side in the hatch would be the woofers in carpeted boxes made of mdf, probably sealed.

jon

(obviously im still thinking a lot.)

 

oh and I think SPL is more of my game.
jon