yes b300z, thats what i noticed too when i decelerated. it was a lot smoother.

ALL TESTAMONYS WELCOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Ok guys heres the rest of the info i learned from this mod..I havent gotten as far as b300z b/c i was afraid of damaging those plastic tubes that run from the air box up to the fender well. I d rather do more and not damage something..making sure that if i ever had to I could put them bback in and keep the cars value.

My motto..modfing is easy (so is ruining one), but doing it so that things look stock or without damaging the car is isnt.

Here are those pictures i promised:[IMG]
You'll need to remove the front nose panel
[IMG][/IMG]
Aswell as the two turn signals indicators...
[IMG][/IMG]
Lookin in through the nose panel..you'll need to remove both hose clamps with a 10 mm wrench or socket. There is only two hose clamps that will need to be removed from here.
[IMG][/IMG]
You will need to remove that 10 mm bolt from the frame rail..it supports the piping. You do not have to remove that hose clamp, but i would recomned loosening it. It makes life easier.
[IMG][/IMG]
Lookin in through your turn signal opening. This hose clamp is towards the top of the piping leading upwards in the direction of your headlights. Again..another 10 mm.
[IMG][/IMG]
ONce you finesse the piping out..you should have something lookin like this. I noticed that the piping was sealed at the spot where the two joined. I have not removed the other oval shaped plastic tubing yet..but i m workin on it.
[IMG][/IMG]
I orginally bought PVC pipe covers with the intention of just taken a rubber mallet and bumping them on..but I found these to be far better.
[IMG][/IMG]
I bought them from the local hardware store for about $2.50 a piece. They are 1.5" drain plugs. Once you tighten up the wing nuts the rubber forms a leak proof seal. If you go to ace hardware..here is the item # 41846. It should be in a little clear plastic baggie.

As for performance gains..i m not sure. B/c i added my HKS ground net kit at the same time. Im not entirely sure which mod added to my power gain. I do not feel any difference in the low end power..but IT DOES pull harder in the top end. I am goin to Z1 to do a dyno pull either tuesday or wednesday. I want to know how much power I ve gained with this mod+ HKS Ground Net kit+ NA TEST PIPES = ???

 

did you also take out the top part also? or did yours have it?



ive noticed thate you only took out the bottom half of what i did...

 

Yeah..i ran outta time that evening. I am going to tomorrow as well as the AIV deletion. It wont take long, I was just rushed for time and i chose to leave them in rather than tear something up. Are there any bolts or clips holding that top piece in??

 

i found one bolt on top right before the wheel well begins on each side.
the bolt is a farther back then where your pic ends...but im sure you get the idea

 

So if anything else..you would have to remove the front inner fenders on both sides?

 

If that plug is going into rubber type of hose, I would definitely still put a hose clamp around the outside. You don't want to be suckin' in $**** when that falls out. (2 cents)

 

NO NO..that plug is what plugs the hard metal pipe that the lower U pipe was clamped too. The parts you remove with this mod are all plastic. The plugs are used in the metal parts.

 

i didnt have to remove anything to get to the bolts
just turn the wheel some to get a ratchet in there and you will be fine
and when i pulled those big hoses out like i said...there was no damage done to them...so its safe to do it like that

 

where you put the plug in, right next to it, there is another hole with a closed tube on it. does it matter if you move that tube to the other hole, because it is easier to reach this hole to plug it???
also, i noticed when doing this mod, my first-to-second gear shift takes longer; it stays in gears longer. is this normal? i have an automatic btw...

 

ok I am confused on wht ur talkin about?? You talked about unhooking and moving pipes...what were talking about you shouldnt have that option. When doing this mod..you should only be plugging off the METAL pipe only. All other crap coming off of it and runing under the fram rail should be removed.

BTW..I did get those last two pieces out and without taking the bumper off and without damaging the pipes. All i did was tak the section of inner fender off. One 10mm bolt and dropped it outta the bottom of the bumper.

Another thing..I have managed to shave roughly 15 lbs off of my Z car this weekend.
THIS NA MOD- DONE
AIV deletion (ALL OF IT) - DONE

Plus I managed to take more weight off when I add the NA test pipes which are so much lighter than the factory units.

 

And another thing I AM going to the dyno tomorrow at Z1. I ll see how much horsepower I have managed to gain woth this mod+ HKS ground net kit+ NA test pipes. I ll give u guys the results tomorrow

 

Any results you wanta tell us about?

 

how do you reset the ECU?

 

ECU reset is done by disconnecting the negative battery cable.
leave it disconnected from 15-30 mins, that should reset your ECU.

 

Ok guys i went o Z1 on thursday..I havent been able to post bc I graduated from high school last night. CLASS OF 05! Anyway..me and shawn made three pulls on their dyno.
The last time i dynoed i pulled a 189.4
1st pull- 194.7
2nd pull - 196.5
3rd pull (bout 15 minutes later) - 197.6

With just the test pipes, AIV elemination, ground net kit,a nd the intake pipe mode I managed an icrease of more than 8 rwhp. I m not sure how much I actually gained from this mod, i wish i could dyno my car everytime i make a modification. But those are my results....

 

That seems like a pretty good improvement for those mods. what mod do you think gave you the most? test pipes?

Congrats on the graduation. Kid2 here graduates next friday nite

 

Well I m sure that the AIV elimnation didnt add any hp..all that did was remove some dead weight.

The test pipes I think contributed the greatest, however, I think the throttle response (or bottem end) was helped my this mod. And i believe the ground net kit helped with the electronics adding aswell.

we noticed on the dyno graphs that the bottom end wasnt hurt that bad..there was a pretty good gain there. Mid range power DID NOT gain as much. With the top end gaining the most.

Overall I feel the test pipes helped the most..but when you think about it. Every little bit helps in the strive to gain horsepower.

Next one my list of to dos...TOP END rebuild with stiffer valve spings, port and polish, bigger valves, headers, match porting, the works. I hope to save up enough money to do this by the end of the summer. I ve decided to keep my slick top NA for now.

 

i had my first drive in a pretty hard rain today after all that stuff was taken out.
i noticed that it seemed to run a bit rougher when i accelerated, and the exhaust tone was a little abnormal, kinda like the engine was barely sputtering.
i was kinda scared that my engine was gonna freeze up on me, should i be worried at all by this?

oh btw...it started hailing here like a mo fo, i had to run out and pull the z into the garage. it was the first time i had ever seen hail, and it hurt too

 

Hail is no good my friend..I had a buddy who had his t tops smashed out by hail a few years ago goin to the prom.

Bout the problem with the engine loosing power. There is a possiblity that this mod may have done that..i have drivin in the rain plenty of times with this mod so far and I havent noticed a difference. However, it sounds like the rain or air flow may have been messin with your mass air flow meter. I have noticed that when I pressure wash my motor or when Z1 puts a fan in front of my car on the dyno. That my car runs rougher bc of the way the air flow is comin across the nose. I see that you have the greddy bumper..do u think that may have some affect to your problem?

I say this bc I know that myself and lightspeed still have the factory bumpers..and KENZ is runnin the JDM piece. That greddy bumper may be taken in more water than ours is.

 

That's not a good thing to do.

 

OK, I think I can clarify some items regarding this mod. I have been on a month long wrench-turning season on the Z and this is one mod that I wanted to understand. Here's what I found...

1. The lower "loop" is NOT an open pipe. There is NO vacuum leak or short cycle in this intake plumbing.

Where the two pipes are joined with a hose clamp you will notice that the one "pinches down". The piece is COMPLETELY closed - the plastic is molded as blocked off. Again - there is NO vacuum leak danger with a POP charger. I confirmed this with the pressure tester from BOOSTPRO.net.

2. Removing the lower loop pieces can be accomplished by removing the POP charger and the blinker light assembly. Removing the front facia is NOT necessary.

3. You need to remove this piping to get the plug installed correctly. A 1 1/2" plug from the local hardware store plugs the hole where the loop is removed. The upper pipe is steel, so a hose camp is not necessary. It is a very nice fit.

4. There is a weep hole in the intake side of the loop indicating that it was intended to remove water or condensation from the intake section (pre-MAS). Which begs the question, WHY all this effort in the first place?!? It appears that the loop also provided some isolation/smoothing effect for the intake charge, hence the complete block. That's the best that I can come up with.

5. I noticed a noticablysmoother acceleration when I inserted the plug and reset the ECU.

BOTTOM LINE: If you have POP charger, consider this mod.