Tranny bell housing top bolt
10-12-2008, 07:14 PM
#1
F5 Hero
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Little Rock, Arkansas
Posts: 855
Tranny bell housing top bolt
How are you supposed to remove this? i have all the others out (I think, I was told there were 10, I've only found 9 (including the one on top i can't get to) ). I have extenders and swivel, I think i might beed more extenders or something unless someone has a handy tip? I can go through the shifter linkage where the shifter is coming through if anyone has tried that before?
10-12-2008, 08:20 PM
#2
Pr0n Addict
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: virginia
Posts: 4,617
it is a hard one. you can't even see it.
i can't get to specific, but i can tell you that i had two people. i was on top sticking my hand behind the engine to catch the socket that my dad was pushing up from the bottom (cause my hands are smaller), then i'd hold it while he cranked.
tools were a standard ratchet, one very long extension, two mid sized ones (about 7 in. i guess. i forgot all the real measurements), and 2 +-1 u-joints. i think it was the long extension, the short one, a u-joint, a short one, a u-joint, a socket. i think. something like that. good luck.
also try adjusting the jack under the tranny to see which angle helps you. i really forgot which way i liked to put it to help, but you can get the engine away from the fire wall from where it usually sits, which helps
i can't get to specific, but i can tell you that i had two people. i was on top sticking my hand behind the engine to catch the socket that my dad was pushing up from the bottom (cause my hands are smaller), then i'd hold it while he cranked.
tools were a standard ratchet, one very long extension, two mid sized ones (about 7 in. i guess. i forgot all the real measurements), and 2 +-1 u-joints. i think it was the long extension, the short one, a u-joint, a short one, a u-joint, a socket. i think. something like that. good luck.
also try adjusting the jack under the tranny to see which angle helps you. i really forgot which way i liked to put it to help, but you can get the engine away from the fire wall from where it usually sits, which helps
10-13-2008, 06:44 AM
#3
Jack Of All Trades
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Acton, California
Posts: 2,296
I use about 18" of extensions and a swivel. You pretty much have to blindly reach up there, with socket in hand, and feel your way to the bolt head. My ratchet is usually down by the tranny mount. I wrap some black tape around the swivel the keep if from flopping around.
There are two bolts up there btw.
On another note, when we did my kids' clutch a month or so ago, he rounded off one of the top bolts by not having the socket on good. The bolt was on the passenger side top. We were actually able to get a box-end wrench on the bolt, then we hooked a tie-down over the end of the wrench and I was able to pull on the strap to loosen the bolt. We could then get the socket on it to uncrew it.
There are two bolts up there btw.
On another note, when we did my kids' clutch a month or so ago, he rounded off one of the top bolts by not having the socket on good. The bolt was on the passenger side top. We were actually able to get a box-end wrench on the bolt, then we hooked a tie-down over the end of the wrench and I was able to pull on the strap to loosen the bolt. We could then get the socket on it to uncrew it.
10-13-2008, 11:08 AM
#4
Encyclopedic Knowledge
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Naperville, IL
Posts: 3,316
socket -> 10" extension -> universal joint (swivel) -> 10" extension -> ratchet
Go in from the side of the trans, about halfway back the length of the trans.
If you have stubby gear wrenches, you can use that from the top of the engine bay, too... assuming you've removed the battery and done a few simplicity mods (eliminated parts that aren't necessary).
Go in from the side of the trans, about halfway back the length of the trans.
If you have stubby gear wrenches, you can use that from the top of the engine bay, too... assuming you've removed the battery and done a few simplicity mods (eliminated parts that aren't necessary).
10-22-2008, 06:21 PM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 126
either way you try it it is not easy. Me and my dad ended up getting it with just a regular old wrench lol. He was also a jet mechanic for 15 years so working in cramped places is his specialty lol. But i do believe the guide on TT.nets tech pages calls for like 36'' of over all length and swivel ends.
10-25-2008, 02:17 AM
#6
F5 Hero
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Little Rock, Arkansas
Posts: 855
We got it, used i dunno 24" - 36" of extension, a swivel on the end, with someone on top looking in and guiding it. ON that note, there are 10 bolts in the bell housing, we only took 9 out.... and yes, we did drop the tranny... so.... weird.... (this is my parts car i recently purchased btw, not mine =-P )
For your enjoyment...
For your enjoyment...
Last edited by napoleonzheking; 10-25-2008 at 02:20 AM.
11-01-2008, 05:42 AM
#10
Obsessive Craigslist Disorder
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: az
Posts: 569
oh decided to rebuild it now anyways mine is fixed it was the little spring and control valve i didnt even need to take it all the apart the spring was worn and the valve has some **** on it so new spring and and cleaned the valve with my parts washer and good as new
11-01-2008, 09:33 AM
#11
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11-08-2008, 09:21 PM
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1
Guess I'll throw in my 2 cents in case anyone else has this problem.
Lots of extensions with a swivel are needed but the key to it is to put a jack under the transmission, remove the bolts in the tranny crossmember and lower the tranny. When the back of the tranny drops it opens the gap in the transmission tunnel and angles the back of the motor allowing a straight shot to the bolts. Make sure to leave a few other bolts in the bellhousing so it doesn't drop when the top bolts are removed.
Lots of extensions with a swivel are needed but the key to it is to put a jack under the transmission, remove the bolts in the tranny crossmember and lower the tranny. When the back of the tranny drops it opens the gap in the transmission tunnel and angles the back of the motor allowing a straight shot to the bolts. Make sure to leave a few other bolts in the bellhousing so it doesn't drop when the top bolts are removed.
11-18-2008, 12:24 PM
#15
F5 Hero
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Location: Little Rock, Arkansas
Posts: 855
One thing i noticed, you can see the top bolts from the top. This makes it REALLY easy to get the socket on it. Also, if you have socketing wrenchs (i'm to poor for those) you can get it from the top with ease. I only took out 9 bolts of my bell housing... so no clue where the 10th was supposed to be..
11-18-2008, 01:22 PM
#16
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: virginia
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my bell housing was a little strange with bolts too. someone had not put it back together properly, and i didn't get it any better. maybe someday. when i change the clutch or something i'll take the time to get it right
i wasn't ever able to see the bolt from the top, just feel it. like i said, dad was pushing the socket up from below and i was guiding it on with my hand.
i wasn't ever able to see the bolt from the top, just feel it. like i said, dad was pushing the socket up from below and i was guiding it on with my hand.
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