Hey Guys!

I put together this install guide with some helpful pictures in case anyone needs something to follow while swapping out their radiator.

Feel free to add any helpful information or tips you may have.

Enjoy!

Tools Needed:
Socket Wrench and Extensions
10 MM Socket and/or Wrench
Phillips and Flathead Screwdriver
Pliers
Coolant Funnel

Parts Needed:
New Radiator
Coolant
Distilled Water



1. Make sure the vehicle has completely cooled and supported on jack stands or a vehicle lift.

2. Remove the front underbelly pan from the car. Locate the petcock to drain the OEM radiator. Remove the radiator cap to aid in draining the radiator.



3. Unplug the fan connectors on the right side of the vehicle and remove the wire clip that attaches the fan wiring to the radiator fan shroud.



4. Remove the lower radiator hose and tuck the hose behind the sway bar to keep it out of the way.

5. Remove both intake air filter boxes from the engine bay. (Each uses one (1) 10mm bolt) The MAF sensors must be un-plugged and the intake rubber duct must be loosened.



6. Remove the 10mm head screw on the LEFT side frame rail for the A/C system line.



7. Remove the covers on the front radiator support to access the 10mm head bolts for the A/C condenser.



8. Remove the two (2) 10mm bolts that secure the coolant reservoir to the top of the radiator and remove the tank. Disconnect the lines and place to the side.

9. Remove the upper radiator hose.

10. Remove the two (2) 10mm screws that secure the fans to the radiator and remove the fan assembly by pulling the fans straight out of the engine bay. The lower mounts of the fan unit are pegs.



11. Turn the upper radiator securing points to un-lock and remove the mounts.



12. Tilt the radiator towards the engine and unhook the A/C condenser from the bottom pegs on the front of the radiator.



13. Once the A/C condenser is completely free of the radiator then remove the OEM radiator. Make sure that all the rubber bushings are removed from the OEM radiator.

14. Install the upper and lower bushings onto the new radiator.



15. Install the new radiator into the car making sure that the A/C condenser is secured into the lower pegs of the new radiator and the screws are replaced on the upper mounting points.

16. Install the upper mounting clips and turn to lock position.

17. Install the fan shroud, coolant overflow tank, upper radiator hose, lower radiator hose, fan plugs, A/C line bracket and air boxes. Installation is reverse of removal.



18. When re-filling the cooling system make sure to top off the system with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water. During the bleeding process place the heat on high inside the car to evacuate any air bubbles in the system quickly. Check for any leaks in the cooling system and road test the car. Be sure that one of the fans is running when the A/C system is turned on. If the fan does not run check the connections on the under side of the car.

19. Replace the lower splash shield and road test the car.



You have now successfully installed your new radiator!

 

Thanks, pictorial 'How to's' are always of benefit.

 

I just completed installing an aluminum 2 row radiator. eBay "2-ROW FULL ALUMINUM RACING COOLING RADIATOR FOR 03-06 350Z Z33 G35 SKYLINE VQ MT". $112. inc- shipping.

A few of my issues:
The slots in the lower front (for condenser) tabs were cut too short. Required filing to fit.
The lower front tabs were too long. One had to be cut back almost 1/4" before it would fit around the framing.
The upper condenser mounting tabs holes had to be filed downward to meet radiator's hole pattern, and re-positioned.
The bottom bushing pegs were a full 1/4" narrower than the original. Required filing out the bushing hole in the lower housing into a slot. It is plastic, and filed easily.
CHECK ALL MEASUREMENTS BEFORE INSTALLING RADIATOR. It would have saved me about 4 or 5 in-&-outs of the radiator.
The radiator depth is about 1/2 wider than the original. Clearance for the fans is still OK. The air filter box gets pushed back this 1/2". It still slid into the bottom bushings, but I had to drill & tap a new hole for the top bolt.
And, I should have replaced the thermostat when the radiator was out. Stupid of me.

When filling the system, I could not get coolant to flow out of the air bleed screw @ the firewall, even when lifting the front of the car. A small funnel in the air bleed allowed me to totally fill the hose directly. Worked great. It has sucked down the reservoir about an inch the first couple heat cycles. I will be checking it again till the bubbles are gone.
My lady's Z is running much cooler, but considering how dirty the old one was, I am not surprised at all.

Thanks for the photos and words.

 

Thanks! Very relevant!