I was driving home earlier this week, and my Z started to overheat. I pulled over and noticed a leak coming from what I assumed was the lower radiator hose. I asked someone to borrow their hose, filled the radiator, and drove home. The car started overheating again as soon as I pulled into my place, and was dumping water everywhere. I allowed the car to cool down, and then filled the radiator again. I started the engine after tightening all the hoses, and noticed a fairly large leak coming from the seam between the timing cover and front of the engine block.

I'm hoping to fix this by just retorquing the bolts on the timing cover, but I have a feeling I'm going to have to tear the cover off and replace the gasket behind it. Will this require I pull the head and drop the oil pan, or can I just loosen everything a bit and wiggle the cover off? Every time I've ever taken the cover off, the head was completely off of the motor.

 

I think you have this in the wrong section. But I believe I can help you. Yes you can take the timing cover off. Without taking the oil pan, and head off. Your manual will tell you step by step how to do it. But I will tell you from experience, how I did it.

It's pretty simple in itself. And you probably have less parts, than I have on my 280zx.

First cut the power, by unhooking the battery.

Then remove the fan, and pulley.

Then remove the radiator, it will make it easier for you. (Make sure you drain all the coolant out, before unhooking hoses and such.)

I also found it easier to remove my hood.

If you want to change the gaskets on the water pump. Just remove it, if not, there are 2 or 3 bolts holding it on the block. The other bolts are just on the cover itself.

Next remove the alternator, you can just put it out of the way. And then remove just the main top alternator bracket. You can leave the bottom one on the block alone.

And if you have a/c, you need to remove the bracket, and put the unit to the side out of the way.

You will have 4 front bolts on the bottom, holding the cover on the oil pan. Just remove those bolts. You don't have to remove the oil pan.

Then remove the distributor

Also, you need to either leave the water inlet on the cover, by taking the radiator hose off. (It is on the passenger side of the block running vertical. Or remove it off the block. The gasket for that doesn't come in the kit. So keep that in mind, when you decide.

Also before you get too far. You need to remove the crankshaft pulley, and harmonic balancer. It is a 27mm socket on the L28. (should be the same on your L24. And then you kind of tap it with a hammer. It is pretty strong, I found it easier to use a pry bar, and tap with a hammer.

Then just make sure you get all the little 10 and 12mm bolts off of the cover. And gently pry it off. You can remove it, with the oil pump, and the shaft that shares the distributor in place.

After all that, if I explained it right. You should be able to remove the timing cover. And replace your gaskets. Just get a timing cover gasket kit. Should include all the gaskets you need. Also get the ultra blue silicone RTV. It worked great for me. And there are not leaks.

Also make sure your distributor, and oil pump, are lined up properly, with the marks on the shaft. When reinstalling the timing cover. I think you know that already. So I wont go into full detail.

Then installation, is pretty much reversed. I am sure you can figure that out. It is tricky to reinstall the timing cover, when the engine is in the car. But not real difficult. Good luck with the procedure, and tell us how it went.

 

Thanks for the help Wildman, and I have posted this into the wrong section.

I've torn down the L24 more times than I care to count, but every time I tore the block down I removed the head and loosened the oil pan before pulling the timing cover...but I was hoping to get away without having to drain the oil and replace both the oil pan gasket and head gasket.

 

No problem man anytime. Oh, and you can keep your oil, and not have to drain it. And not have to replace the pan gasket. All you have to do, is apply RTV to where the 4 front oil pan bolts are. When you are putting the timing cover back on. I did that, and don't have any leaks anywhere. So it should work for you. Good luck man.

Also you just loosen the 2 bolts on top of the timing cover. That is the only head bolts you need to take off. And then you RTV it, when you put back together. Again good luck man. Keep us posted.

 

Also, just RTV where the top of timing cover meets the head. And you should be fine there. Hopefully I didn't leave anything out.

 

Won't water leak from the front of the block down into the oil pan?

 

It shouldn't if you RTV everything. When you put it all back together. Like I said, it is a little tricky getting the cover back on with the head, and pan on the engine. But it is doable, I did it less than 2 weeks ago. Because, I had to take the timing cover back off. Because I was off a tooth on my timing. And that was quite an ordeal in itself.

 

Thanks for the suggestion Wildman, I ripped the cover off and RTV'd the **** out of everything. I decided to follow the instructions on the RTV this time and allow it to cure for 24 hours before driving it, so we'll see how everything goes tomorrow.

 

You are welcome man. Glad I could help. Hope all goes well, and you don't have any more problems. Keep us posted.