Double A-Arms
#1
Double A-Arms
Here is an interesting double a-arm conversion using existing LCA. It is a show/drag car but maybe something like this would work for autocross FP. It looks like the frame rails have been replaced with thicker rectangular tubing.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...&category=6187
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...&category=6187
#2
If I were going to do this I wouldn't use the stock pieces. If you look at the pics it doesn't look like they did much to imporve scrub or steering axis inclination. Those are two biggies that need to be resolved or you won't end up with much imporovement over a strut. I drove a car that was modified like this and was expecting a lot of improvement and didn't see it.
It certainly is a pretty car. I'm guessing a live axle in the back with some form of 4-link connected to the subframe stiffeners.
Cary
It certainly is a pretty car. I'm guessing a live axle in the back with some form of 4-link connected to the subframe stiffeners.
Cary
#3
Just as a real grassroots way of doing it, I had thoughts of cutting off the top of the strut, welding in an adapter, which would allow me to bolt in a rod end. That way I could keep the lower control arms, and make an A-arm for the top. The lower ball joint could then be moved closer to the centerline of the wheel therefore reducing scrub.
I also wanted to do the same on the rear, but possible fabricate dual pick up points for double h-arms of sorts. But maybe a single point like the front would be sufficient, and therefore making toe adjustments easier too.
I also wanted to do the same on the rear, but possible fabricate dual pick up points for double h-arms of sorts. But maybe a single point like the front would be sufficient, and therefore making toe adjustments easier too.
#4
Here's one that I druel at quite often. The upper A-arm would look something like this. But on the other hand, if you're going that far, maybe new uprights should be used all together.
Does anyone know where you'd get ones like these?
Does anyone know where you'd get ones like these?
#5
Originally Posted by preith
Just as a real grassroots way of doing it, I had thoughts of cutting off the top of the strut, welding in an adapter, which would allow me to bolt in a rod end. That way I could keep the lower control arms, and make an A-arm for the top. The lower ball joint could then be moved closer to the centerline of the wheel therefore reducing scrub.
Take a look at a coleman or afco catalog to see uprights like you pictured below. You can buy off the shelf pieces for dirt/asphalt stock cars. Or if you can fab you can get the pieces to make this a lot easier. My front TC arms are made from some afco pieces. No 30 year old Datsun stuff still in use.
I also wanted to do the same on the rear, but possible fabricate dual pick up points for double h-arms of sorts. But maybe a single point like the front would be sufficient, and therefore making toe adjustments easier too.
#6
Thanks Cary. That's what I was talking about, but I was thinking of cutting it down lower in order to clear the wheel (with more offset like you mentioned)? But maybe that's not needed?
I'm at a loss with the steering axis problems. If bumpsteer is good, what else would you change? What's different on your custom arms? Like in the other post, one could move the tie rod on top of the arm.
I did find uprights in the Colman catalog (listed as spindles), but I wonder what the king pin inclination is, and if the pick up points are in the best spot. Maybe I'm just being lazy, but I don't really want to think about these because then there's everything else; bearings, hubs, calipers....
I'm at a loss with the steering axis problems. If bumpsteer is good, what else would you change? What's different on your custom arms? Like in the other post, one could move the tie rod on top of the arm.
I did find uprights in the Colman catalog (listed as spindles), but I wonder what the king pin inclination is, and if the pick up points are in the best spot. Maybe I'm just being lazy, but I don't really want to think about these because then there's everything else; bearings, hubs, calipers....
#7
Originally Posted by preith
Thanks Cary. That's what I was talking about, but I was thinking of cutting it down lower in order to clear the wheel (with more offset like you mentioned)? But maybe that's not needed?
I'm at a loss with the steering axis problems. If bumpsteer is good, what else would you change? What's different on your custom arms? Like in the other post, one could move the tie rod on top of the arm.
I did find uprights in the Colman catalog (listed as spindles), but I wonder what the king pin inclination is, and if the pick up points are in the best spot. Maybe I'm just being lazy, but I don't really want to think about these because then there's everything else; bearings, hubs, calipers....
Cary
#8
Originally Posted by tube80z
I don't think it would be too hard to remove the tube from the strut and change it's angle, which would be what we are looking for.
Cary
Cary
EDIT: Another thought, this could be taken further, and an adapter could be made to effectively put the rod end outside the strut tube all together, sort of back tracking towards the hub.
Last edited by preith; 03-30-2005 at 05:54 AM.
#9
Originally Posted by preith
I feel like I'm beating a dead horse here, but was brainstorming a little about this and had an idea. What if one was to machine an offset plug for the top of the strut tube where it is cut, where the upper a-arm attaches?
The option of having a top mount that bolts on is good and would allow you to set things like trail. But for SIA you'll want as little as possible and would probably end up with a front drive type wheel to take care of scrub.
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