Nforce1

So my goal is to be at or a little above 400whp. Maybe 425 or so. You guys have a lot of knowlege on FI since most of you are FI. So I wanted to see what you guys suggest as the cheapest system to achieve 400-425whp. Im trying to stay away from greddy though, other than that, Im open to suggestions.

roneski

Nitrous with a really big bottle. Cheapest bang for the buck available.

Love2ridepow

+1

or TN, but buyer beware

machsound

well like they said nitrous is the cheapest bang for the buck. But if you want power that you don't have to go fill everytime you get done at the track go with a turbo.

I'm guessing your putting this on your 350z. I have seen plenty of turbo 350's but im sure its not the easiest thing to do. I am sure that they have a higher compresion on them. which will limit the amount of boost that you can throw in there. I would probbally say no more than 7 or 8 lbs. For pure reliablity your looking at building the engine up a little, putting on a good turbo of your choice and running with that. Its not going to be cheap!!!!!

If you want FI cheap buy a car that is already or get a honda where you can get a turbo kit for 1500 bucks.

rob209

Cheapest turbo system for those numbers in Turbonetics. They've come a long way since their release a couple years ago. Supposedly fairly simple install, too. And their main office is in Cali.

Nforce1

What Im looking for is to be up there around that number.. but without having to worry about problems. I dont have money for a full build (or else I would have done it already lol) This car is still going to be my daily driver. I would love to get the JWT kit, but... $7500 for just the kit is kinda out there for me. I need a kit that has relaiablility... Im not going to be tracking the car or anything, just a few "spirited" drives here and there during my daily commutes.

Nforce1

Maybe S/C is the way to go for me, for more reliability?

Nforce1

Ill look into that, thanks

rob209

a S/C doesn't have the torque in the lower RPM range like turbo... plus they are actually more maintenance (belts break) from what i've read.

if you are on a strict budget, don't do it. your budget will soon be gone. i'm sure all the other guys will back me up on this.

Love2ridepow

yep, think about what I have had to do from one of the most reliable kits on the market

2 tranny's
DR's
oil pressure sending unit (OEM)
brakes go faster
tires a LOT faster
test pipes
exhaust

I am sure more will come, but thats an extra $1500-$2000 without the exhaust and TP.

If you ever need a thrill ride, I am down to take you out on the 215

Nforce1

What about going with a Vortech supercharger set up? Maybe I should be a little more realistic, 380whp??

i8acobra

I'm not a fan of Stillen, but a positive displacement blower with a small shot of the juice should get you where you want to be.

Nforce1

tryin to stay away from the juice too lol

SinCity350Z

Anything over 400whp and you need a built motor IMO if you want reliability, not to mention a new clutch, the appropriate gauges to monitor it, installation, tuning, maintenance, etc. If you don't have the money to do FI right, then dont do it at all. Going the cheap route will cost you a lot more in the long run.

Nforce1

damn it, but i want it! lol

SinCity350Z

If you were going skydiving, would you look for the cheapest parachute?

Kinda the same thing.

Stealth

You goal is 400+RWHP = 460+FWHP(on 6sp). It seem like you'll have failure connecting rods after your car make over 400rwhp before pistons.


My recommendation is to limit use of the stock rods in engine of 450FWHP or less.

If i were you, i would change Cat Back System,Off Road pipe,3.90 Reargear,Cold Air Intake and recalibration computer.

For Poweradder : Nitrous Wet Kit. I would run 55 shot but you must do.....

1) 1 Step Cloder Sparkplugs.

2) Window Switch active above 3,000rpm and shut-off 500rpm-1,000rpm before Redline.

3) Good Gas.

4) EFI fuel pressure safety switch.

5) N2O flo-thru pressure gauge.

6) Automatic Bottle Heater.

7) Spay Nitrous between 900-1,100psi.

Last thing i would do, i'll put it on Dyno for make sure A/F Ratio, Total Timming and calculate the shift point on each gear.


I belive you should not spend over $1,500 for Nitrous System and Accessories. You don't have to worry. It's only 55 shot won't hurt a thing on your car and a full bottle will last you for awhile.

Stealth

No, It's not true. It depend on what type of SC you use.

ensmuns

I agree with Mike and Stealth. Power adders involve more upgrades that'll run you more money unless you have deep pockets like Mike (curse you, Mike! And your little dog too!)

IiQuickSilverII

for your power levels and budget thsi is yoru best choice... i know of a deal to go on the procharger + pro-installed and dynotuned for 6k...let me know about it and illgive you details if interested

Nforce1

Kinda puts it in perspective for me.... lol

Stealth

For me, i'm not recommend Centrifugal Supercharger or Turbo if your car is not at the track all the time.

I belive, everyone in here know our 350Z have a very low TQ @ low and mid rpm if your car daily driven Centrifugal Supercharger or Turbo aren't worth with the money you spend.

Nitrous love hi-compression engine. Everytime you hit Nitrous, you will have instant power of TQ and HP also Nitrous will bring much more better TQ in low and mid rpm than Centrifugal Supercharger or Turbo.


I belive our 350Z will handle 75shot(75rwhp) on wet kit.

If you compare a 350Z Nitrous 75shot(75rwhp) with a 350Z Centrifugal Supercharger or Turbo make 100rwhp.

A 350Z with Nitrous should beat A 350Z with Centrifugal Supercharger or Turbo. and also if you race in summer i'm sure 350Z with Nitrous give a bus lenght on a 350Z with Centrifugal Supercharger or Turbo. Why?

Because Nitrous will give a better TQ at low-mid rpm, always give a very very cold air to the engine and weight of the car lighter but your wallet will be heavier because you spend much less for Nitrous than Centrifugal Supercharger or Turbo.

IiQuickSilverII

problem is no matter wat you say, nitrous still unsafe
i agree with the rest

vegas_speedster

Mike, what do the guys at JWT and VRT think about the limits that the 350z's lower end can handle?

IiQuickSilverII

400whp imo 15+- for safety stock